For many years, Cartier has been devoted to innovation, trying out new techniques, reviving forgotten ancient skills and exploring the countless possibilities of artistic craftsmanship. Its tireless curiosity and creative determination has led to such revelations as plique-à-jour enamelling, grisaille enamelling, straw marquetry and, most recently, the techniques of granulation and cameo.

With this collection dedicated to the artistic crafts, Cartier adds a new dimension to the visual aesthetics of watches: that of colour. Vibrant deep and subtle, they explore the spectrum of tone-on-tone gradations. This artistic palette is made possible by the personal approach of craftsmen – poets familiar with very rare techniques that demand incredible patience and precision. Their talent has produced a wonderful collection inhabited by imaginary creatures, some captured in sunlight and others lit by moonbeams.

Engravers, enamellers, sculptors and specialists in marquetry combine materials and colours to ensure that the glaze of mother-of-pearl, the tawny blondness of straw, the transparency of enamel and the radiance of agate all contribute to the stunning visual effect of contrast, relief and highly graphic design.

Watch with fish motif in plique-à-jour enamel

The challenge that Cartier set itself with this watch was to create the feel of the water and its blue-tinged transparency. It has succeeded magnificently with shimmering plique-à-jour enamel and translucent shades that evoke coral in the depths of the sea. One, two, three… five different blues confront greys and violets in an array of deep tones. The dial in plique-à-jour enamel has the vibrancy of a stained-glass window. The enamels are suspended between fragile wires, as elegant and delicate as pencil lines, that play with the light. To this precious technique, Cartier has added mother-of-pearl painting with the creation of a fish in relief. Its citrus orange and highly graphic style contribute to the dream-like quality of the whole dial. This round watch is like a porthole through which we peer into the watery depths.

Santos watch with engraved, enamelled falcon motif

Cartier’s aim in producing this Santos XL watch was to bring out the hypnotic intensity of the predator. The engraving and the enamel in subtle shades of grey and blue-tinged black bring the falcon to life. The solid surfaces and cavities of the engraving create the relief on the wings and the contrasting mosaic of feathers and downy fluff. All the details are carefully depicted and stand out strongly against the matt mineral black background, from the beak to the gently curved eye in orange-tinted enamel with a pupil that is stunningly realistic, penetrating and alert.

Watch with horse motif in grisaille enamel

The sparkle of moonlight on the proud mane of an Andalusian horse is magically captured in this Cartier watch in grisaille enamel. The shadows and shafts of light conjure up all the shades of midnight blue like an enchanted nocturnal vision.

This ancient enamelling technique takes its name from the shades of grey, black and white. Here it follows the drawing with the precision of an engraver but Cartier has deflected the grey tones towards blue. As in a painting, marine blue is the base that supports and magnifies the white. The craftsman coats the dial with brilliant blue enamel and fires it. Then, with a fine brush, he progressively draws the motif in Limoges white, which evolves during a series of six to eight different firings. The enamelling of this piece takes almost 40 hours to complete.

Through painting, the craftsman can shade the whites to bring out shadows, contrasts and plays of light to create relief.

Watch with lion motif in straw marquetry

Cartier had the wonderful idea of using straw marquetry to create this feline. The subtle gradations of colour in the lion’s mane are captured perfectly by the warm shades and silky brilliance of this unusual material. The stalks of straw with their infinite nuances of colour are individually selected, split, flattened and cut with a marquetry saw. Their six natural tones, ranging from golden to red, combine in a powerful image that is further enhanced by a play of perspectives and creatively cut shapes. Straw is a material that is rarely seen in watchmaking and that Cartier began using two years ago for its delicacy and unique softness.

Watch with cameo crocodile motif in natural agate

Applying the subtle technique of the cameo to the art of watchmaking is a daring step that Cartier undertook in this watch. The subtle gradations of blue in its natural agate suggest the reflections of the sea and the gem-cutter has created a crocodile emerging from the waves. This predator, one of the most emblematic in the Cartier menagerie, is particularly striking in this interpretation with its bold relief and sparkles of light. It requires a special expertise to bring out the nuances of the agate, ranging from blue-tinged black to shimmering white, without damaging the stone. A mesmerising watch with a flying tourbillon complication and stamped with the Geneva Seal: a masterpiece of art and the watchmaking crafts.