Geneva Watch Days: DOXA Adds to the Ranks with New Stainless Steel Army Dive Watches
A new, more accessible reissue of the DOXA Army in stainless steel salutes military-heritage while embracing some modern, colorful style.
In a follow-up to its sold-out limited-edition ceramic-case Army “Watches of Switzerland” edition released earlier in the year, this week, the Le Locle-based watchmaker, DOXA, showed off its new stainless steel versions of the Army during Geneva Watch Days, including a handsome execution with a bronze bezel option.
In the Army Now
Debuting in 1967, the DOXA SUB 300 was the first professional-quality dive watch considered affordable to the general public. And, of course, DOXA’s relationship with undersea pioneer Jacques Cousteau helped spread the SUB 300’s fame far and wide.
Then, by 1969, DOXA timepieces became officially issued gear for the Swiss Army’s elite diver units. As part of the lead-up to the military collaboration, DOXA developed a dedicated tool watch, named the Army, that was purpose-built as an ideal watch for military divers. And these DOXA Army timepieces became some of the most sought-after vintage pieces by collectors.
Now, regarding the DOXA Army models released this week, there are no fewer than five new references available. The first version comes in all steel (case and bezel) with a black ceramic bezel insert and a beaded steel bracelet. Like the first, the second reference comes in all steel with a black ceramic bezel insert, but this one comes on a black FKM rubber strap.
Meanwhile, along with the stainless steel cases, the third and fourth versions have bronze bezels and hunter-green ceramic inserts, with one coming on the bracelet and the other on the black FKM rubber strap.
Finally, the fifth reference looks just like the third and fourth versions above, except this one comes on a hunter-green FKM rubber strap.
And despite the variations between the references, all these new timepieces lean hard into the maker’s authentic dive watch chops that began with the birth of modern undersea exploration.
In these new 42.5mm steel reissues, the vintage aesthetics of the original are boldly apparent, but include some subtle updating in design and performance. The rounded cases are machined from blocks of 316L stainless steel, with screw-down crowns and threaded case backs to ensure a 30 ATM (300 meters/984 feet) water resistance rating.
The signature DOXA uni-directional bezel, which runs thin and superbly tactile for easy gloved manipulation, is made even more nautical with the new bronze option. And, of course, diving and safety-related indications are bathed in Super-LumiNova for legibility at the darkest of depths. A rock-solid ETA 2824 automatic movement delivers 38 hours of power reserve.
All of this rugged beauty frames a period-authentic sand beige dial. Meanwhile, the brilliant orange widened hour and minute hands ride over pairs of technical set light and dark rectangular indices that, though designed for “make-no-mistakes” legibility, fill the dial so nicely with a kind-of throwback tech-meets-fashion sensibility.
Finally, in addition to the selected steel or FKM rubber strap standard options, each of the new DOXA Army timepieces also comes with an additional ready-for-action NATO camouflage strap and is presented in a case featuring the official camo pattern of the Swiss Army’s historic field uniform.
Pricing & Availability
The new DOXA Army timepieces are non-limited and will be available at DOXA retailers and via the DOXA website starting in October 2022. The all-steel version listing for $2,050 on rubber and $2,090 on steel. Meanwhile, the steel/bronze bezel versions will go for $2,250 on rubber and $2,290 on steel.
(Photography by Pierre Vogel)