Dubai Watch Week: TAG Heuer Propels Its Iconic Monaco into the Future

The year 1969 was a particularly significant one in horological history. It was the year the first automatic chronograph calibre debuted, which gave way to some of the most important models that continue to define the tool watch landscape: the Zenith El Primero, the Omega Speedmaster, and the TAG Heuer Monaco.

The Monaco was not just notable for its automatic chronograph calibre; it also presented a remarkable design, one that has become instantly recognizable and synonymous with TAG Heuer. The first and most obvious feature is the distinctive square case. Early versions also presented an unusual placement of the crown on the left-hand side.

While there have ultimately been countless iterations of the Monaco, the signature palette consists of a vibrant blue and white color scheme with red accents. Over the years, incorporating new materials, such as carbon, has also been a focus within the line.

Today, at Dubai Watch Week, we get the next evolution with a model that firmly leans into material innovation and forward-thinking design. This is the Monaco of the future; this is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1.

There can be a belief in watchmaking that adding more complexity automatically equates to the hardest challenges a watchmaker can face and results in the most impressive timepieces.

For instance, to fit the perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and chronograph functions needed to be classified as a grand (or grande) complication watch, these pieces typically require bold case diameters and are unusually thick, so that they can house all the features. Moreover, in the case of chiming watches, precious metals are often used to enhance sound quality. The result is heavy timekeepers that aren’t particularly practical.
 

However, another argument can be made that paring down a watch to the essentials is an even greater challenge. With the rise in popularity of sport and tool watches optimized for performance, stripping a design to its essence isn’t just about simplicity or legibility; it’s about overall wear.

To that end, we’ve seen a trend of lightweight timekeepers offering effortlessness and ease for daily wear or in action. Materials like carbon, along with titanium and other composites, have helped make this possible, not only when it comes to case construction but also when building the inner workings of the movement.
 

Now, TAG Heuer throws its hat into the ring with the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1, which clocks in at just 85 grams total, despite its 15.2mm thickness, thanks to its lightweight Grade-5 titanium case and a manufacturing technique called Selective Laser Melting (SLM).

Typical watch cases have multiple base components, each fashioned from a single block of material using CNC milling machines that remove portions of the material. In other words, this method builds cases via subtraction. By contrast, SLM is a purely additive process, similar to 3D printing.
 

It begins with a layer of metal powder, such as aluminum, steel, or, in this case, Grade-5 titanium. This metal powder is blasted with a high-powered laser that selectively melts and fuses sections, guided by a 3D Computer Aided Design (CAD) model. Initially, as this cools and solidifies, it produces a thin sliver of material.
 

However, as the process is repeated, layer after layer is added, and an object emerges, taking the form the designer intended. A final step removes any roughness from the material, giving the case its smooth, skin-like finish.
 

Achieving the complex shape of the trademark Monaco case for the new Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 is very labor-intensive. It takes a specialist engineer around 10 times longer to program the tooling than for other Monaco cases. Even then, it takes five times longer for those tools to manufacture it.
 

That said, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1’s case, with its futuristic, supercar-like aesthetic, is worth the effort. It’s just amazing to look at.

Inside the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 beats TAG Heuer’s Calibre TH81-00, a high-frequency automatic movement that was developed in collaboration with the esteemed specialist movement creator Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier.
 

Here, the major components are also manufactured in Grade-5 titanium to maintain lightness, weighing just 30 grams without compromising on performance, stability, or reliability. Its components are hand-finished with high-end decorations, including TAG Heuer's signature checkered flag finish visible through the exhibition caseback.
 

This cutting-edge mechanical movement powers the watch’s signature complication, a rattrapante (split-seconds) chronograph, which enables you to time two events that start simultaneously but end independently of one another.

The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air makes its debut today at Dubai Watch Week, with delivery expected in December of 2026. This model is a numbered limited edition of just 30 pieces, each priced at CHF 150,000. For more information, visit the TAG Heuer website.