Peter Speake Unveils the Tsuba Watch Inspired by Asian Culture

Peter Speake, a renowned name in independent haute horology, continues to leave his mark on the watchmaking world with his most recent collection, the Tsuba, unveiled under the PS Horology umbrella.

Before we get into this intriguing new series, let’s just regroup for a minute about Peter Speake and his PS Horology company. You probably know him best for his namesake brand Speake Marin, which he co-founded in 2002 and served as a watchmaker for 15 years until its sale. A few years after that chapter, he formed PS Horology as an overarching entity for his various endeavors in the world of watchmaking.

When Peter started PS Horology in 2022, he wasn’t necessarily thinking about it as a brand but more of an umbrella under which he could perform his restoration work, his one-of-a-kind commissioned work, and more.
 

“I think the name is personal, of course, with PS, and also there’s the important nod to the seriousness of the work, with the Horology name. I love the restoration work and the creation of unique pieces,” shared Peter Speake during a recent video interview. “I love being at a bench where I can lose myself for hours and hours. It’s extremely fulfilling.”

Personally – and perhaps because I’m a writer and have known Peter for so long – I love the name PS Horology for another reason. Of course, the impetus for using “PS” is his name. However, I think it offers dual meaning as a nod to the future or an additional thought, much like the P.S. (postscript) at the bottom of a letter when the writer adds one more important note. Peter seems to always have some other thought or idea (usually good ones) popping up here and there.
 

Those fortunate enough to know Peter and to have experienced his intense work ethos and dedication to art and horology are among the lucky. With more than 35 years in the industry, Peter has worked on a host of important projects, ranging from restoration work in London to a stint with Renaud & Papi in Le Locle and on to collaborations with brands such as Harry Winston, Maîtres du Temps, MB&F, and more.

Always the consummate high-horology perfectionist, Peter has put more than 1,500 hours into a specially commissioned timepiece that he’s yet to be able to discuss. And spoiler alert: he also has a few other announcements set for this year that go above and beyond his latest creation: the Tsuba.

In addition to the other work he’s been doing since forming PS Horology, Peter has been working alongside designer Darren Jones. Their relationship goes way back, and Peter even refers to him more like a brother than just a great friend. In the Tsuba collaboration, Jones has designed the highly unusual and complex case of the watch.

The Tsuba collection draws its name and design inspiration from the tsuba, the intricate handguard of a Japanese sword, revered for its balance and protection. During the Edo period, tsubas evolved into works of art, often passed down as heirlooms. The Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son models exemplify Peter’s commitment to blending cultural heritage with technical innovation.
 

“Darren knew how much I love the culture of Asia. That can already be seen in a lot of my early works because with Asian art, there's always a story. There's always a reason behind the art. And that’s what I want to achieve in my work,” explained Peter. “It's not just beautiful for beauty's sake – there’s always a significance. And in new creations, there has to be more than just a product.”

According to Peter, Jones had the idea of the Tsuba initially. “The first drawings that Darren did back in 2019 were inspired by the tsubas he had seen. And then I did a whole stack of different sketches myself with different variations, and my friends in Vietnam fell in love with it.”

The Tsuba was no easy watch to create. From the ergonomic and very organic case with complex curves to the equally complicated ergonomic bracelet, there were going to be challenges in production. But challenges have never stopped Peter.
 

The Tsuba offers a stainless steel case with a diameter of 38.3mm and a thickness just under 9mm and a design that fits as perfectly as the sword in the hand of an expert. It features a hybrid shape inspired by the quince fruit and the octagon, symbols of prosperity, stability, and sacred balance that were often found on tsubas. Altogether it’s a complicated geometric marvel.

The design, with scalloped corners and rounded edges to emulate the grip plate of the swords, required more than a year of prototyping and a highly complicated five-stage finishing process, including brushing and polishing, underscoring the exceptional craftsmanship involved in the decoration of the case. Other challenges came in the making of the bracelet, which underwent multiple prototype developments to ensure perfect rotation of the links and the way the bracelet attaches to the case.
 

“I think it's one of the things that will really make it a success because it feels so good on the wrist. Not only does it look cool and different, but there’s also that sort of sensory element that’s not something you get with every product. It's quite slim, and so it really hugs the wrist and follows the contours of the wrist in a perfect way”

There are two models in the initial series: the Tsuba Blue and the Tsuba Dong Son. Both watches are powered by the ultra-thin automatic Vaucher Manufacture 5401 calibre with 176 parts and a micro-rotor that has been personalized by Peter Speake.
 

The Tsuba Blue model reflects a marriage of vintage aesthetics with modern materials. Its sapphire dial features an extraordinary hue of blue created by painting lacquer on the underside of the sapphire. The super blue dial is paired with classic indices and hands and is designed to create a striking sense of depth and dimension thanks to the use of shadows and reflection. This design pays homage to traditional blued steel elements, a nod to watchmaking's storied past.
 

The Tsuba Dong Son version boasts a much more elaborate dial – one whose style deftly reflects Peter Speake’s long-standing dedication to art and beauty. In fact, this dial celebrates the artistry of ancient Vietnam by drawing inspiration from the ceremonial Dong Son drums of the Bronze Age. These drums, adorned with intricate geometric patterns and depictions of mythical creatures and daily life, serve as a cultural touchstone.
 

During our video interview, Peter showed me a bronze drum from which he took inspiration for the 18-karat gold dial. Its intricate details were inspiring even to me through the screen.

The Dong Son dial captures this essence with graphical symbols and hands shaped like ancient spears and daggers along with meticulous hand finishings. The delicate sanding process reveals contrasting gold and colored surfaces, highlighting the craftsmanship required to honor these ancient motifs. The dial of this watch comes in two colors, either slate or ultramarine. Both are initially being presented on a strap until the finished integrated bracelet can be delivered.
 

The Tsuba Dong Son model’s significance extends beyond design, as its 2025 launch coincides with the 80th anniversary of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam and marks 100 years since the discovery of Dong Son civilization in 1924. Its cultural resonance aligns with Peter Speake’s vision of merging historical depth with horological excellence.

The pair of Tsuba watches are being launched in Vietnam, with the Tsuba Blue limited to 100 pieces and selling for CHF 19,500. The price is not yet released on the Tsuba Dong Son, but it’s limited to just 80 pieces. Both models exemplify Peter Speake's philosophy of creating timepieces that resonate on multiple levels: as functional instruments, artistic expressions, and historical narratives.