Vox Populi: Rolex, Right Now

As the “crown” of the watch world, Rolex’s approach to making headlines is fairly straightforward. First, the brand introduces its well-curated, thoughtful, highly anticipated, potent novelty product line-up at Watches and Wonders in Geneva each year.

Then, as the year progresses, additional news comes out via the watchmaker’s various activations, events, cultural happenings, and affiliations (including globally important tennis, equestrian, golf, motorsport, and yachting competitions).

Still, even when the esteemed watchmaker is not making news, Rolex is always on the minds of members of the watch community. So, we sought out some interesting “watchonisti,” and asked the following question:

What is currently exciting you about Rolex, and why?

New Yorker Charity Mhende’s insights cast light on the watchmaker’s more elegant offerings. Hitting the scene in 2023, the 1908 certainly speaks volumes about the fact that the brand, so prominent in sports watch production, carries significant design chops in a more classic horological realm.
 

“Right now, Rolex is striking a beautiful balance between legacy and evolution - looking inward for inspiration and doubling down on heritage in a way that feels modern and intentional. From the 1908’s buttery gold bracelet to the pastel and mini Oyster Perpetuals, they’re leaning in, loosening up, and still keeping it classic. Whether on the court at Wimbledon or your favorite rapper’s wrist, Rolex is showing that legacy can still lead the conversation and look effortlessly cool doing it.”
 

Meanwhile, the 28mm to 36mm Oyster Perpetual models, following the current trend of shrinking case sizes, have opened up a new world of fine timepiece options for those with smaller wrists.
 

A watch enthusiast and GPHG academy member, you can find Charity Mhende on Instagram, @pulseonthewrist.

The Canadian “mystery” photographer, Erik Z., is clearly up-to-date on his Rolex news.

“I’m most excited about the new Land-Dweller, or more specifically, the Cal. 7135 that’s inside the Land-Dweller. There are some pretty major advancements on the movement side that are being overlooked by enthusiasts due to a divisive dial design.”
 

We couldn’t agree more. As far as we are concerned, the Land-Dweller’s Calibre 7135, with its the innovative “Dynapulse” escapement that has resulted in a more precise, anti-magnetic (more on that in a moment), and an approximately 30% more energy efficient movement, is the real draw and far overshadows any persnickety purist complaints about the Land-Dweller’s dial design (be it “wasted” real estate or its honeycomb motif), conservative color options, or its “dated” integrated bracelet.
 

A watch photographer and enthusiast, you can find Erik on Instagram, @averagewatches.

Angeleno Greg Wooten’s commentary on the Milgauss, while still based on rampant speculation, certainly echoes some fairly persistent rumors and hopes of the Rolex community at large.

“The speculation on Rolex returning to an anti-magnetic focus after the Milgauss’ ‘retirement’ in 2023 is something I’m very interested in. I’ve been fascinated by the Milgauss ever since learning a bit of its history: its antimagnetic feature was originally designed in the 1950s as a utilitarian timepiece for engineers working in power plants and various research labs.
 

“Shortly after acquiring my Milgauss on the secondary market in 2022, I learned that it had been discontinued AGAIN, as it was once before in the late 1980s (to be put into production, once again in 2007). From a collecting and investing perspective, it’s always interesting to me to follow the production history of various watches.

“I’ve been hearing rumors within the community that the Milgauss might be coming out of ‘retirement’ soon. I’d love to see this personal favorite Rolex reintroduced and available again!”
 

Since Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss ref. 6451’s introduction in 1956, there have been significant advancements in anti-magnetic movement technology from Rolex (the Land-Dweller’s Dynapulse escapement being the brand’s latest development) and other watchmakers. Moreover, even more modern Milgauss executions haven’t been without some degree of controversy.
 

A “new” Milgauss might add to that story with even-better magnetic field-fighting innovations, but certainly the timepiece’s distinctive design – down to the often iridescent dial color options and “lightning bolt” seconds hand – would come into play.

A watch collector, mid-century design purveyor/auctioneer, and DJ, you can find Greg Wooten on Instagram, @zoothorn.

Milan’s popular watch luminary Andrea Casalegno adds his voice to the fascination with the new, technology-driven Land-Dweller from this year, but also throws some attention to the watchmaker’s recent, more unexpected side by mentioning the whimsical “puzzle” dial design seen in the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 released in 2023.
 

“Rolex has been very conservative for quite a while, but since Watches and Wonders 2023, we’ve been seeing more and more. To me, the most exciting news is, on one hand, the brand’s daring use of colors in watches like the ‘Puzzle,’ taking things way less seriously than we’ve been used to.

“But on the other hand, with the Land-Dweller, Rolex proved to everyone that the brand is really strong, taking a huge step up towards technological and high-end watchmaking. This ‘yin-yang’ approach blends the Rolex image we have, solid and coherent, with something completely new and still under development that we’re ready to discover!”
 

Rolex’s out-of-the-box flourishes have obviously caught his attention and continue to be most welcome by the community.

A watch collector, consultant, and YouTuber, you can find Andrea Casalegno on Instagram, @iamcasa.

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