Only Watch Announces Its 2023 Line-Up (Full List & Special Page)
Only Watch

Only Watch Announces Its 2023 Line-Up (Full List & Special Page)

At the 10th edition of the renowned charity auction, no fewer than 73 watchmakers will participate, offering 62 mouthwatering lots.

By Steven Rogers

Today, renowned charity auction, Only Watch, announced the line-up of participating brands at its highly awaited 10th edition, which will take place in Geneva on Sunday, November 5th, 2023.

Since its inaugural edition in 2005, Only Watch has raised over CHF 100 million for the benefit of research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy by auctioning highly creative, one-of-a-kind timepieces put forward by leading watch brands, including big players and niche independents.

This year’s milestone edition is poised to be Only Watch’s biggest event ever: 62 tantalizing lots will go under the hammer thanks to the record participation of 73 watchmakers and watch brands.

What’s more, the lots feature no fewer than 16 collaborations which see several brands joining forces with other watchmakers, artists, designers, movement manufacturers, and, in one case, even a winery, to create exceptional unique pieces to help raise money for a noble cause.

What’s Past is Prologue?

Only Watch 2023 has been one of the most hotly anticipated dates in the horological calendar thanks in no small part to the huge success of the two previous editions of the auction. First, Only Watch 2019 – which saw the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A fetch a record-breaking CHF 31 million – raised over CHF 35 million overall.

Then, two years later, Only Watch 2021 nearly matched that total when it generated sales proceeds of CHF 30 million, as five lots – from Patek Philippe, F.P.Journe, Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, and De Bethune x Voutilainen – hammered for over a million Swiss francs, some of them in the multi-millions.

How the 2023 edition – once again being run in collaboration with Christie’s – will unfold is anyone’s guess. But if it is anything like the last two auctions, we can expect an electrifying atmosphere and some sensational winning bids. Besides, it is not just the quantity of participating brands that should whet watch aficionados’ appetites, but also the quality of the unique pieces on the block at this year’s auction.

Return of the Kings

Patek Philippe will return, once again, this year, putting forward the first timepiece of a 30-piece grand-complication limited edition that pays tribute to honorary president Philippe Stern, who celebrates his 85th birthday in 2023. It will feature an entirely new movement exclusively developed for this tribute watch. Sadly, images of it are not yet available.

Audemars Piguet will also be back, this time with a one-of-a-kind Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked, remarkable for its white ceramic case and bracelet that neatly contrasts with touches of blue on the mainplate, bridges, and inner bezel.

Another stand-out returning participant is Bulgari and its spectacular one-off Octo Finissimo Tourbillon which boasts the most Roman of design twists: Its dial and DLC-treated titanium case and bracelet are covered with a thin layer of Verdi Alpi marble!

Another Journe Screamer

After teaming up with movie director Francis Ford Coppola to make the mind-blowing FFC Blue automaton watch for 2021’s 9th edition of the fundraiser, F.P.Journe is set to wow auction-goers again with the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu.

It houses the newly developed Calibre 1522 in 18K rose gold and features a full-tantalum case and bracelet as well as a translucent blue oven-fired enamel dial (whose frosted numerals are only visible when light reflects off of them). It also boasts moonphase and power reserve indications integrated into the movement that is visible through the display caseback.

Tudor’s Block Party

This year, Tudor will mark its participation at the auction by reviving its first automatic chronograph – the “Big Block”, initially released in 1976 – by way of the new Tudor Prince Chronograph.

The unique Prince Chronograph One destined for Only Watch features an 18K yellow gold case and black lacquered dial with sunken gold tricompax registers. Powering the indications is the prototype of what will be Tudor’s brand-new column-wheel chronograph movement, Calibre MT59XX.

Flowers, Planets, and Tourbillons

Meanwhile, Hublot has teamed up again with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – known for his multicolored flower motifs – to create a stunning haute joaillerie pièce unique. The MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch has a 12-petal shaped steel bezel set with 444 brightly colored gemstones, paired with a flower-shaped all-sapphire case. On show at the watch’s center is Hublot’s first-ever central flying tourbillon.

And finally, Dutch-led maisons Frederique Constant and Christiaan van der Klaauw have combined their talents to create the Tourbillon Planetarium Only Watch 2023. Featuring an aventurine dial, it cleverly brings together the world's smallest planetarium, by Christiaan van der Klaauw, with Frederique Constant’s Swiss-made manufacture tourbillon.

Of course, there are many more lots to discuss, so stay tuned to Watchonista over the coming weeks and months as we bring you more in-depth Only Watch 2023 coverage.

Pre-Auction World Tour

Finally, as is tradition, the Only Watch 2023 collection will begin a world tour in the weeks preceding the event. This year, it will start on September 6th in Los Angeles before moving on to New York, Monaco, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, and Dubai. The tour will finish off in Geneva in early November ahead of the auction. 

About Only Watch

Only Watch is a biennial charity auction of luxury timepieces made by the finest watchmakers for the benefit of research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a progressive muscle degeneration mainly affecting young boys.

Under the patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco and through the leadership of its founder and organizer Luc Pettavino – whose son Paul was taken by Duchenne muscular dystrophy in 2016 at the age of 21 – Only Watch shows that empathy and altruism, when effectively harnessed, can be an extraordinary driving force for hope. All proceeds raised at each auction are dedicated to the Monaco-based charity Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies to fund scientific and medical research into finding a cure for this degenerative disorder.

The 10th edition of Only Watch will take place on Sunday, November 5th, 2023, at 2pm CET at Palexpo in Geneva, as well as online and on the phone. To attend the auction in person, please express your interest through this short form.

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