Hands-On: Ferdinand Berthoud's FB 1 Oeuvre d’Or, A Masterpiece Of Decoration

Contrary to previous versions where titanium and ceramics appeared, these two models presented at the Carré des Horlogers of the SIHH 2019 boast cases and dials fully made of solid 18K gold. The three half-bridges of the FB-T.FC-3 caliber are also carved out of the precious metal. But the decorations impress even further.

A unique patina of the golden dial is achieved through painstaking handwork by and engraver. The grained surface is then softened with a special tool, a “rocker”, that delicately flattens the reliefs. It creates a shimmering effect as if the light was reflected on an ancient gold mirror patinated by time. The respective faces in yellow and rose gold of the FB 1.1-2 and FB 1.2-1 are decorated with delicate hand engravings with Ferdinand Berthoud’s name, the individual number of the limited series “N° X/5”, as well as “Haut” and “Bas” (high and low) for the power reserve indicator located at 9 o’clock. The whole universe of Ferdinand Berthoud condensed in a few elegant calligraphic curves. More than two months are necessary to make this rendering.
 

The back of the movement, visible through a crystal sapphire back, receives just as much attention. It is adorned with “pyramid” engravings, executed by the expert hands of in-house engravers. They meticulously chisel every millimeter of available surface. All the characteristic elements of these exceptional chronometers are highlighted: the tourbillon, the constant force wheel, and the fusée-chain. It is simply beautiful. (For all technical details, read here).
 

Both models, adequately named “Oeuvre d’Or” and limited to 5 pieces, benefit from the characteristic horological architecture with pillars of the caliber. But the FB 1.1-2 in grey gold is actually the very first to be set with 20 baguette-cut diamonds for 1.99 carats. They are set in place where the sapphire crystal portholes stood, as well as on the crown. The contrast of the grey gold case, the yellow gold of the dial and the discrete scintillating diamonds is striking and very elegant.