Patek Philippe 5396G

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar, reference 5396

At Patek Philippe, invention is a key activity whilst commemorations remind everyone of the creative wealth of the manufacture. In the same way, the Annual Calendar ref. 5396 combines business with pleasure.

By Vincent Daveau
Contributor

Patek Philippe has always produced luxury products of excellent quality and it offers wholeheartedly an additional sensitivity to those who are overcome by its creations.

In a constantly changing world, the noble maison that the Stern family acquired in 1932 has always strived to meet the requirements of experts in beautiful watchmaking. Indeed, they have created timepieces with traditional watchmaking codes combined with codes that adapt to the market’s needs and reality thanks to their regularly reinterpreted complications. And so, exactly 20 years ago, the manufacturer's watchmakers created the first ever watch with an Annual Calendar for experts who moved with the times. On top of providing flawless calendar information, the complication was not limited by the same constraints as Perpetual Calendars in terms of power reserve to guarantee an all-time accurate date display.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref 5396G-014 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref 5396G-014

When necessity is the mother of invention

No truer words as proved by the several existing versions of the same complication. In the last 20 years, the manufacture has already created 21 versions of this Annual Calendar that was patented in 1996 (excluding metals and dial variations). This year, to mark 20 years of excellent service, the manufacture has introduced a 22nd version of this useful and efficient mechanical subtlety which indicates time, the date, day, month and also more often than not, moon phases (accuracy of a one-day difference every 122 years). All this without having to make adjustments except perhaps manually stopping the calendar on March 1st so that accurate information is displayed throughout the year.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref 5396G-014 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref 5396G-014 on the wrist

The easily-set complication is also easy to wind when the watch is not in use.

While it has been a challenge for watchmakers, the complication is user-friendly since it is as simple to set as a small complication such as a complete calendar. On top of that, the user does not have to worry about the months since they are set to change automatically.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref 5396G-014 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref 5396G-014

Modern timelessness

The 2016 Annual Calendar, introduced as reference 5396, will appeal to collectors not only because it is beautiful and sports a well-balanced case assembly, but also because it is the anniversary edition of the complication. For the record, the design of the case of the Annual Calendar reference 5396 reminds us of the first Calatrava model launched in 1932. The piece’s round contours extend dynamically and elegantly to the strap's attachments while a smooth and polished bezel surrounds a sheet of domed sapphire glass, thus giving the watch volume and a very modern look. This treatment emphasizes the dial that also embeds other famous elements, such as its subtly revisited design (gold applique Breguet numerals) and implantations. Thus, the day and the month appear in a double aperture under 12 o'clock, while the date is indicated through a large open aperture at 6 o'clock. Visual balance is ensured by a 24-hour auxiliary dial, with moon phase indication on the lower half.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref 5396 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref. 5396R-012 and ref. 5396G-014

Available in white gold with a sunburst anthracite dial or in pink gold with a silver opaline dial, the watch is driven by a self-winding mechanical calibre. The 21K gold central oscillating mass (reference 324 S QA LU 24H/303) features excellent finishing stamped with the Patek Philippe Poinçon that can be seen through the transparent back.  An ultimate representation of modernity, this timeless piece comes with an alligator strap closed with an 18K gold Calatrava deployment buckle of the same color as the case.

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