Audemars Piguet Just Dropped an All-New Perpetual Calendar Movement in Three Models

Audemars Piguet has long been at the forefront of advancing the perpetual calendar complication, achieving technical and design feats far beyond the basics (which are actually quite intricate, even in the simplest form.

Now, thanks to five years of research and development and five patents, the new calibre 7138 movement offers – for the first time – the ability to make the corrections of every function via an all-in-one crown.

Today, it makes its grand entrance in not one, not two, but three pieces: a Code 11.59 and two iterations of the iconic Royal Oak.

The perpetual calendar complication dates back to pocket watches of the 18th century, thanks to British watchmaker Thomas Mudge. Then, as wristwatches became popularized in the 20th century, the perpetual calendar was adapted to new proportions.

Today, this complication continues to be one of the most complex calendar watches in existence, with a mechanical memory capable of mapping 48-month time cycles, automatically adjusting the varying number of days in each month, even during leap years. This intricate mechanism requires manual intervention only once every 100 years to keep it in sync with our solar time – a pretty incredible feat.
 

Audemars Piguet is one such brand that has been fine-tuning its perpetual calendar watches for years. The Maison’s roots in astronomical watches go back to brand co-founder Jules Louis Audemars’ school pocket watch, which combined a perpetual calendar with a quarter repeater mechanism and the rare independent deadbeat second function.

Years later, in 1955, AP introduced the complication into one of its wristwatches, marking one of the first perpetual calendars to indicate leap years. Fast forward a few decades to 1978, and the brand unveiled its first self-winding perpetual calendar, which was, at the time, the thinnest automatic wristwatch to house the complication.
 

Now, the Maison unleashes the next evolution of its perpetual calendars with the new calibre 7138 self-winding movement. And, seeing as 2025 marks AP’s monumental 150th anniversary, if this new calibre is any indication of what the Maison has in store for the occasion, we can’t wait to see what’s to come as the celebration continues to unfold.

Typical perpetual calendar watches have correctors inserted in the side of the case. These correctors are then activated using a small tool to adjust the various sub-dials. Unfortunately, this traditional system can make setting the watch cumbersome, especially if it has been left unwound for an extended period of time.

The newly unveiled calibre 7138 features an all-in-one crown that allows for the correction of all functions. Moreover, because all the calendar functions are synchronized via this new crown correction system, it is no longer possible for someone to desynchronize the watch and damage the mechanism while attempting to set their watch when the automatic date change mechanism is active (between 9pm and 3am).
 

As a result, the design of this movement not only makes the experience more user-friendly with the ability to adjust the complication anywhere, anytime without tools, but it also allows for a more streamlined case that is more comfortable to wear. Basically, it’s a win-win.

Practically speaking, the calibre 7138 allows the crown to operate in four positions. The first position is for the basic winding of the watch. The second offers several adjustments, including setting the date when turned clockwise and the month and leap year when turned counterclockwise. In the third position, you can set the time.
 

Lastly, the “fourth” position is perhaps the trickiest because you must push the crown back one step – technically, to position 2 – to set the day and week (clockwise) and the moon phases (counterclockwise). The duality of “position 2” is possible thanks to a complex mechanism driven by an advanced lever and wandering wheels system that meshes with the different calendar wheels in the second and “fourth” positions.

This innovation is protected by two patents: one for the crown correction system with a second application of “position 2” and one for the month and date correction via the crown.

The calibre 7138 makes its official debut in three watches: the Code 11.59 and two Royal Oaks. Each comes in a 41mm case, with the Code 11.59 rendered in 18-carat white gold and the Royal Oak offered in either stainless steel or 18-carat sand gold.
 

Moving on to the dials (which also feature a patented progressive step for the date display at 12 o’clock), the Code 11.59 showcases the collection’s signature embossed dial, a motif was created in collaboration with Swiss guilloche artist Yann Von Kaenel for the collection in 2023. This time, we get a gorgeous smoked blue PVD colorway completed with a matching blue rubber-coated strap with calfskin lining.
 

The stainless steel Royal Oak has a similar color palette. It combines the metal with a blue PVD Grande Tapisserie dial, matching sub-dials, and an inner bezel. This model is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet, completing the design of the iconic sports watch.
 

Alternatively, the 18-carat sand gold Royal Oak presents a monochromatic look, with the sand gold extending from the case to the bracelet. In addition, the Grande Tapisserie dial is executed in the same warm golden-pink hue. While the first two iterations lean into the brand’s sportier side, this one is the most refined and versatile of the three.
 

Of course, each model features a sapphire caseback, so the new calibre 7138 can be viewed in all its glory. Moreover, in honor of the brand’s 150th anniversary, all three models come with a few special touches, including a vintage “Audemars Piguet” signature inserted in the moon phase sub-dial at 6 o’clock.