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A collector conversation with @d330h

As part of Watchonista’s continued coverage of the collector scene, I recently had the opportunity to sit down with @d33oh. You may already follow him on Instagram, but if not, I highly recommend you follow him now.

By Josh Shanks
Contributor

In our conversation, we discussed collecting strategy and buying tips. What followed was an intense conversation surrounding how to buy watches, watches as investments, and the emotional aspects of collecting. I hope you enjoy our discourse as much as I did.

Audemars Piguet

Josh: Hi @d330h, thanks for taking the time to speak with us about your collection and the watch scene in general. First off, what would you say to people that view watch collecting on the same merits as traditional investing?

@d330h : First, let’s be clear, a watch is NOT an investment. I often hear people say, “I’m buying this watch as an investment”; well when I hear this I get worried. Unless the Return on Investment (ROI) is emotional: a reward for some achievement, professional (promotion) or otherwise (wedding or engagement gift), or holding onto it to pass to your child. We need to remember; a watch isn’t an investment. Most watches lose value after continued wear. Now some watches retain value and some increase in value but these pieces are considered an anomaly in the grand scheme of things.

Richard Mille

Josh: Where do you buy your watches? Any tips for collectors of limited means?

@d330h : Buy from legitimate sources. If the deal is too good to be true, it isn’t. If a $5,000 Rolex is offered to you at $200-500? Run for the hills, as the watch is either stolen or fake. I still find brick and mortar retailers to be the safest bets when buying watches. Brand boutiques should be included in this conversation as well. We need to have the conversation that the grey market exists. But you shouldn’t push a retailer or boutique to match a grey dealer’s price as this is simply a different business model. When people ask me how to buy a watch, I simply say do your research and make sure you have credible references before taking the leap. I once found a watch at a cheaper price from an online retailer but I had to do copious research before pulling the trigger.

Patek Philippe

Josh: Let’s talk about the elephant in the room, fake watches

@d330h :Allow me to say this plainly, never, ever, ever, EVER buy a fake watch. That saying “fake it till you make it”? That doesn’t cut it in the world of horology. Why? Because deep down, you’ll know you’re sporting a fake product.

Also, and just as important: a lot of people can tell a fake watch at first glimpse. Which creates a negative impression of yourself both professionally (colleagues will laugh at you, promotions denied, you’ll end up back in the mailroom) and socially (that girl or guy you liked and you wore your fake watch to your first date? Date over, they block you on all social media and your future husband or wife marries someone who wasn’t faking it). Better to buy a legit $500 watch than a Folex (Fake Rolex).

Audemars Piguet

Josh: Ok, so I want to buy my first nice watch, what should I budget?

@d330h : Budget: What are you willing to spend on a watch? The first number that comes to mind, consider adding 50-100% on top of that amount. Sounds crazy, I know. Why? A watch is the only acceptable form of jewelry for a man and something you can wear every day. So why not spend some good money on it? Full disclosure, I’m a watch nerd and have always liked watches. My father thinks I’m insane and says, “a $100 Casio tells the same time as a $10,000 Rolex”, I say: “a Toyota and Mercedes or Bentley are both cars with 4 wheels and get you to the same place at the same time, which would you rather have?” All kidding aside, don’t kill yourself over a watch, budget per your income and get the most decent watch you can. I also say better one awesome watch than 3 lesser ones. Keep in mind, there should be joy in the waiting, researching, and saving. At the end of the day, you’ll be getting what you REALLY Want.

Patek Philippe

Josh: What would you say to an aspiring collector that wants an all-around nice dress watch? Is gold and precious metals ok in the workplace?

@d330h : I generally advise against buying ostentatious watches for use in a professional setting. The problem is, what’s ostentatious to some isn’t to others. You need to use your best judgment, a watch with diamonds, at the office? Please no, save if for the weekend (if you must buy such a thing). A flashy gold watch? That’s also a negative (unless you’re in the music industry). Gold is good, I love gold watches personally, but if you must go for a gold watch, go for something understated. Save your gold Audemars Piguet for evening or weekends. I would advise a straight forward steel (or platinum if you’re so inclined) watch for the office. You’ll find suitable pieces at various price points; from the lower end (Tag Heuer, Longines etc.), midrange (Rolex, Panerai, Omega), to high end (Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, etc.).

Casio G Shock

Josh: Let’s talk about building a collection, any tips for the novice?

@d330h : if you’re lucky enough to have excess liquidity, buying a varied collection can be fun and you can build a diverse collection of watches to suit your lifestyle. First, go ahead and spend that money on a steel watch for weekdays but don’t forget to pick up a Casio G Shock to take you back to when you were a kid. Spend some of your bonus on that Platinum piece of horological art you’ve been coveting for years. I literally have a watch for every occasion but the most fun was building the collection

Audemars Piguet

Josh: Last question, what’s the current favorite in your collection?

@d330h : That’s a tough one, it would probably be the Audemars Piguet ref 15305 in steel. Why? Because it goes towards my love of AP, it’s steel so I can wear it on weekdays to the office and not be too out there. It’s steel but jewelry like, so it rotates to the weekend well. For me, it’s a watch that works weekdays, weekends, and it’s still a badass watch.

Garmin

Discover more about @d33oh : https://www.instagram.com/d33oh/

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