The OG VC Overseas: Making the Case

Along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin is one-third of the watch industry’s “Holy Trinity.” Yet when it comes to the three brands’ primary sports watch offerings – the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, respectively – Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas doesn’t get close to one-third of the hype.

It is true that Vacheron’s current Overseas models have caught up just slightly to their Patek and AP counterparts with long waiting lists and inflated secondary market prices. However, in the vintage and neo-vintage auction markets, the brand still lags behind its Holy Trinity compatriots.
 

To illustrate, let’s look at comparable steel, automatic mid-size Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas references from the 1990s and where they are currently trading in the market. In the above scenario, a Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800 currently auctions for around $80,000, an Audemars Royal Oak Ref. 4100 for approximately $40,000, and finally, a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ref. 42050 goes for about $12,000.
 

Of course depending on factors like dial color, these figures can change, but I think you get the point.

I wouldn’t fault you for assuming that based on the lack of hype and vast pricing differences, vintage and neo-vintage Overseas watches just aren’t as “good” as their Patek and AP equivalents. But that assumption, in my humble opinion, couldn’t be more wrong.

The four steel automatic Overseas models I will be speaking to in this article were all produced between 1996 and 2004. These include the Ref. 42040 (first series with a 37mm case), the Ref. 42050 (first series with a 35mm case), the Ref. 42042 (second series with a 37mm case), and the Ref. 42052 (second series with a 35mm case). And aside from being the very first Overseas models sold by the brand, all of them were based on the legendary Jörg Hysek-designed Vacheron 222 introduced in 1977.
 

Except for case size, there are some small differences inside and out between each reference, but nothing overly significant. So, to make this easy, I will combine all four references into one blanket term – the “OG Overseas.”
 

The case and bracelet of the OG Overseas feature some of the best finishing I’ve ever seen on a watch. And with many different brushed and polished nooks and crannies, it’s truly a work of art.

To start: the polished bezel is raised flush with the sapphire crystal and features eight “cut-outs” paralleling the eight points of the Maltese cross. The top of the case is expertly brushed with razor-sharp (like, watch your fingers sharp) beveling that leads down into the integrated bracelet. Meanwhile, the sides of the case are polished, as are the long crown guards, and the oversized crown is easy to operate and prominently features a raised Maltese cross.
 

The caseback, however, is the OG Overseas’ best-kept secret. It features a detailed, three-masted ship – supposedly that of the famous explorer Amerigo Vespucci - sailing in rippled water. And underneath this, tying everything together, is the word “Overseas” written in a beautiful cursive font. The actual shape of the caseback mimics the bezel; however, here, the eight points of the Maltese cross are where the caseback screws reside.

Lastly, at least in regard to the case, the OG Overseas comes in at a total thickness (more like thinness) of approximately 8.5mm, which varies ever so slightly by reference.
 

Now, onto the bracelet…

A lot of folks say the Royal Oak has the most comfortable bracelet in the game, but I bet many of them haven’t tried on an Overseas Ref. 42040. However, before we discuss comfort, first we need to discuss how the OG Overseas’ bracelet is a masterclass in finishing and complexity. It is hard to describe, but it’s a three-link, integrated bracelet with larger outer links, which are brushed, leading down via a polished bevel to the similarly polished and brushed center link. Over time the bracelet will stretch a bit, but not, for example, as severely as a Royal Oak bracelet.
 

Lastly, back to comfort – the OG Overseas’ bracelet doesn’t pull arm hair and can be sized perfectly to any wrist (I should know, I have a baby wrist). Plus, the two clasp systems available on OG Overseas bracelets can be perfectly centered on the underside of the wrist (unlike, say, an AP Ref. 4100 bracelet, which always leaves the clasp skewed to one side on a small wrister unless you break a permanent link).

Finally, let’s touch on the movement for just a second, since that’s what gets everyone fired up when it comes to watches (kidding…kind of).

Depending on the reference, the OG Overseas will feature either automatic calibre 1310 or 1311. Both have a gold rotor weight, hacking seconds, quick-set date function, approximately 46 hours of power reserve, and 27 jewels. Moreover, both are ultra-thin and COSC-certified (something the AP Ref. 4100 and Ref. 14790 are not). Of course, as per the rest of the watch, the finishing on the movement is fantastic.