Zooming In: Revisiting A Few of Patek Philippe’s 2025 Novelties

Having gone to many over the years, the much-anticipated Patek Philippe presentation at Watches and Wonders in Geneva is (how do I say this?), um, well-attended.

Basically, my colleagues and I clamor to spend some time viewing the multitude of new models (the 2025 show featured no fewer than 15 novelties), competing Battle Royale-style with paparazzi-like photographers eager for a shot while trying to spend as much time as we can handling the timepieces and maybe asking a question or two of the product experts behind each tray of goodies.

Like a good movie, it is well-executed, but also over before you know it. You’re left with an overall impression of the story, and with strong impressions of the stars of the show. In 2025, those stars were arguably the new Cubitus models, the quadruple-complication Ref. 5308G, and the Calatrava 8 Days Ref. 5328G.

Thankfully, in the U.S., Patek Philippe offers a more relaxed and leisurely opportunity for the luxury and watch press to view its novelties the summer after the Geneva show.

This year, the brand transformed its corporate offices in Rockefeller Center into a kind of summer garden party, complete with a well-stocked florist “cart” and abundant summer snacks and libations with cafe-style seating. But the watches were right there, over to one side, with ample time to dive deeper into their appeal.

For me, two “character actors” from the 2025 novelties, upon up-close and personal inspection, broke through based on two very different “performances”: the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001 and the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001.

In a year that saw a lot of new activity in the perpetual calendar realm, the Ref. 6159G was a standout for its revised technology and horological sophistication. However, after getting to spend some time with it, I also realized that it stands out for its unique presentation.

Yes, the 39.5mm white gold timepiece’s 26-330 S QR self-winding movement sports a dramatic red-tipped retrograde date hand that flicks along a horseshoe-shaped gauge in the dial center. This innovation creates some kinetic wrist theater on the 31st and 30th of the month (as well as February 28th or 29th), with all of that variable date tracking automatically handled mechanically, eliminating the need to reset the watch.
 

Meanwhile, clear day and month apertures frame the retrograde date function at 9 and 3 o’clock, respectively, with a Roman leap-year status window at 12 o’clock and a moonphase indicator at 6 o’clock. So, all the boxes of a fine perpetual calendar get checked. The wheel mechanics are also visible from the front of the watch. But it is a very intimate version of visibility.

Crafted in such a way that it is obviously intended for the wearer’s pleasure, above all, the Ref. 6159G’s dark grey, metallized sapphire crystal mutes down all but the pertinent display information. Of course, some observers might notice something going on in the depths of your watch, but the dark tone of the crystal makes the intricate inner workings a very private show, just for you.
 

The Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001 lists for $123,609.

The new 38mm platinum Calatrava Ref. 6196P initially presents almost like something pulled right out of the mid-century section of Patek archives. As such, even if acquired now, it will remain exquisitely elegant and appropriate for your grandkids down the line because it’s not just traditional but classically, timelessly beautiful.
 

The stunning opaline rose-gilt dial, while vintage-inspired, lends a bit of modern colorful eye candy as a counterpoint to the minimalist hands and bar indices. A clean small seconds function at 6 o’clock, again, adds some vintage flair, but is made possible by a modern calibre 30-255 P manual-wind movement with a 65-hour power reserve.

This new Calatrava is simply a thoughtful marriage of classic design with telling modern performance and cues, down to the secret luxury of a single diamond set discreetly on the case side at 6 o’clock (similar to the sneaky single baguette-cut time diamond on the very modern platinum Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases version of the Cubitus).
 

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 retails for $49,444.

For more information about all of the brand’s 2025 novelties, check out the Patek Philippe website.