The Patek Philippe Cubitus Controversy? C’mon…

I’ve gone well on the record of confessing that I enjoy following timepieces that create disagreement in the relatively staid world we all love. And the latest polarizing example of this kind of watch is the new squared-off Cubitus from Patek Philippe.

Tagged as being the “replacement” for the popular but now discontinued Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus 5711 timepiece, the comments from the cheap seats on Patek’s first new case design in 25 years have, on occasion, been pretty searing but also kind of fun to read. I mean, to me, it is always a good time when the @shameonthewrist Instagram account is triggered (if only for the very high bar set for producing a snarky post).
 

The last time something close to this happened was Audemars Piguet’s launch of the Code 11.59 timepiece in 2019. The brand predicted it would join the Royal Oak as a hit core model , but instead, the Code 11.59 was instantly pilloried, criticized, and lambasted by industry observers.

Now, a few years on, Audemars Piguet has still refused to abandon the design and, in the process, produced some superb results, even garnering the “Aiguille d’Or” prize at last year’s GPHG awards.
 

My point is that it doesn’t matter if you hate, love, or couldn’t care less about the Cubitus because one immutable fact remains: Patek Philippe will almost certainly sell every single Cubitus it produces.

In fact, according to our colleagues at WatchPro, online reseller Bezel has already flipped one for a $50K profit. Can you imagine how the market could react as the buying public really starts to miss the Nautilus over the next decade? I really don’t think it is a stretch to expect pre-owned and auction prices for the Cubitus to increase sharply.

[Editor's Note: Since we cited the WatchPro story, there has been an update. The Cubitus in question was not sold by Bezel but by a third-party seller using Bezel's online auction platform.]

That is why to paint the Cubitus as anything but a win for Patek, while tempting, is perhaps a bit facile.
 

This Cubitus kerfuffle is one of those situations where the thoughts of the press and the industry peanut gallery should be considered far, far less important than the opinions of watch consumers who have actually seen the collection in person.

Consequently, Watchonista went out and found some and solicited their reactions. Let’s see what they have to say.

YouTube Channel: @SmoothBezel

I don’t fully understand the hate the Cubitus is receiving on the internet. Is it perfect? Nope. However, I do understand some of the points. Specifically, being a new collection, I believe Patek should have done something a little bit more daring and interesting because the Cubitus’ case construction and bracelet are almost identical to a 5711.

Also, the initial offerings skew Nautilus-like: The green dial version is the same; the shape differs, but the hands and indices are the same. The dial reads the best in the platinum model; it’s nicely filled with sub-dials. The steel and bi-metal versions both look a little empty.
 

It’s quite big at 45mm, although it feels quite a bit smaller on the wrist as the lug size is also 45mm. I’ve heard about plans for even smaller Cubitus models, which I think would help in general with wearability and design.

In general, the most complete reference, in my opinion, is the platinum. I like the use of the baguette-cut (instead of a round-cut) diamond set into the underside of the bezel at 6 o’clock on the platinum version. The weight of the metal feels nice and reassuring, as well. My least favourite execution is the bi-metal, but that’s really just a matter of personal preference.
 

In my opinion, Patek didn’t nail the price. As the entry sports model in steel, I think the Cubitus should be around CHF 25,000 to compete, not $41,240.

I like the new complicated movement in the platinum version as well. I wish the shape of the movement could be more of a square shape, as the brand has placed so much emphasis on creating a square watch. Also, a bigger power reserve seems apropos.
 

Sure, some things could be done better/differently, but I think, in the long term, it will be a very successful collection and has a very promising future.

IG: @aaronwansg

I love the new shape! It is much more wearable than it appears in pictures, and I think it will help Patek achieve its goal of drawing in a younger audience. I would definitely chalk up much of the criticism to fear of the new.

Something rectangular? People will say “Cartier.” Something circular? “There’s a million of them.” Smaller? “Is it a Longines?” It’s 2024! What new design, short of, say, an MB&F or Urwerk-style release, could Patek produce that wouldn’t resemble other models on the market to at least some degree?
 

In fact, with most watches trending towards smaller sizes, Patek is being pretty bold with such a larger case design.

The 80/20 rule, as always, applies: 80% won’t like it initially because they prefer the safe and familiar. The remaining 20% will be more open.

IG: @dubaiwatchclubgirls

“Anything Patek creates, I’m ready to buy.” This was a sentiment echoed by many women we spoke to. Yet, the launch of the Cubitus design was met with a mix of surprise and intrigue, particularly because it retains the spirit of the Nautilus rather than breaking entirely new ground. As a result, while this design is sure to have its admirers, others may find it outside their preferences.

It’s important to note the distinction between genuine critique and emotional response. We observed that reactions leaned more toward venting frustrations with Patek instead of giving substantive critiques.
 

Perhaps the most unexpected outcome was that a significant percentage of women expressed a genuine appreciation for the design, with some suggesting only a desire for a smaller version to better suit their wrists.

For many, the Cubitus appeared bolder in person than in photos, drawing a positive response overall. Others remained intrigued but felt they may need time for their eyes to adjust to its square silhouette.

From our perspective, as the Dubai Watch Club Girls, we see the Cubitus not as a misstep but as a design intentionally crafted to resonate with a new generation of Patek Philippe enthusiasts – particularly those drawn to the Nautilus and have come to know the brand through that model’s iconic appeal.
 

Patek Philippe, after all, is a rich and diverse brand, offering far more than the Aquanaut and Nautilus. For those who feel limited by these models, we encourage exploring the maker’s extensive offerings, from high complications to exquisite artisanal pieces.

And to our most devoted collectors, let’s keep perspective. Not every release needs to be “for us.” Continue exploring the breadth of Patek’s creations, as the new Cubitus is simply another chapter in the brand’s storied journey.