In-Depth: The New Roger Dubuis Excalibur Brocéliande and Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

Some of the phrases that come to my mind when I consider the unique approach Geneva-based watchmaker Roger Dubuis takes to watch design are “unapologetic brashness” and “overt, equal-opportunity sensuality.” As such, we have certainly seen the brand release some unmistakable watches that stand out on anyone’s wrist, no matter the intent or execution.

However, while the maison has certainly crafted “pretty” watches in its inimitable style for women, the latest versions of the Excalibur Brocéliande do so even more magically than before.

Inspired by the eponymous bucolic Brittany woodlands in France, which served as the fabled home of Merlin and the whole Lady of the Lake moment in the Arthurian legend, the theme of the new Excalibur Brocéliande watches certainly matches up with the Excalibur collection’s ongoing evocation of knightliness, but it does so in a more queenly manner without abandoning how a Dubuis watch should look.
 

Yes, the new 38mm case size (down from the previous 42mm for Brocéliande models) may be a concession to smaller wrists (but, then again, the watchmaker has gone “small” in the past); however, the creation of a new automatic, skeletonized, Poiçon de Genèva-certified automatic RD721SQ movement for the timepieces proves that the house is dedicated bringing movement muscle to all the wrists that wear its watches.
 

Of course, that new movement is also embellished with artful executions of ivy leaves and stems on full display, while the expected chiseled pink-gold cases and crowns, distinctive three-lug strap attachment schemes, delicious leather straps, and other key Roger Dubuis design elements are all there, boldly presented.

Taking on a “dawn and dusk” visual theme, the two Excalibur Brocéliande models certainly pull the talents of the watchmaker’s dedicated craftspeople and artisans into enchanting focus. In the Dawn Rose execution (Ref. DBX1208), the vibrant red alligator leather strap, along with the yellow, pink, and red tones of the decorative mother-of-pearl foliage and indices on the dial, and 60 round-cut diamonds (0.7 carats) set into the bezel, evoke an autumnal forest sunrise.
 

When the sun goes down, the Twilight Blue (Ref. DBX1207) version brings a muted blue colorway and indices to the dial, keeps the natural mother-of-pearl hues on the ivy leaves, an unadorned pink gold case, and a dark blue alligator leather strap for an appropriately more somber tone.
 

Both of these new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Brocéliande models are limited to 88 pieces, and while pricing will certainly vary by model, no details were available at press time. That said, you can pull that sword from the stone by registering your interest at the Roger Dubuis website.

Many makers in the haute horological sphere create outstanding perpetual calendars. But none of them do it in the particularly artful, in-your-face (in the very best sense of that term) form of Roger Dubuis. As with last year’s Excalibur Grande Complication, the timing information on the new Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is presented in large, eye-catching slices reminiscent of fuel gauges.
 

The new automatic, Poinçon de Genèva-certified RD850 Calibre movement that powers this recently-released model not only continues to deliver both the day and date indications in a sweeping style along transparent elliptical indicators at 3 and 9 o’clock with hands jumping back to starting position at the end of their arcs (per the Biretrograde line’s DNA), but new month correction technology allows for an easier, one-step manual month adjustment to that circular indicator at 12 o’clock.
 

And finally, the movement’s astronomical moonphase at 6 o’clock is keyed to a more precise lunar cycle of 29 days, 12 hours, 45 minutes, providing a more accurate representation of the satellite’s actual appearance than many other moonphase indicators that round to 29.5 days. If you are still around in 122 years for its first adjustment, it will only require a single click.
 

Presented in a very-Dubuis 40mm pink gold case and an interchangeable calf leather three-lug attachment strap system, the new Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar (Ref. DBEX1178) is limited to 188 editions, with no official pricing details at press time. Again, you can register your interest and learn more about these novelties on the Roger Dubuis website.