Jacob & Co. Introduces a New Diamond Cut with the Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel-Cut

The lead-up to Watches and Wonders (formerly known as SIHH) always makes us nostalgic for the watch trade shows of yore. Baselworld, for example, was famously over-the-top with Hublot throwing private concerts with Depeche Mode and Breitling’s famous one-story fish tank. These things were excessive, yes, but they were also beautiful.

One of the most unforgettable Baselworld moments was the introduction of the Jacob & Co. Billionaire watch in 2015. The tonneau-shaped 18K white-gold case and integrated bracelet were set with 260 carats of diamonds, and each individual gem weighed 3 carats.

This first Billionaire came with an $18 million price tag and was eventually purchased by professional boxer Floyd Merriwether in 2018.

While the trade shows have become more… let’s say… demure, the Billionaire hasn’t. Thus, to mark the brand’s 40^th anniversary, Jacob & Co. has just introduced the Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel-Cut. Let us shed more light on this dazzling timepiece.

Gem setting is at the heart of Jacob & Co.’s origin story. In 1986, founder Jacob Arabo began producing his own designs under the name Jacob & Co., catching the attention of Biggie Smalls. Eventually, “Jacob the Jeweler” became a well-known figure in the music world, even being name-checked on tracks by J. Cole, Jay-Z, 50 Cent, and Nas.
 

Of course, covering a watch in diamonds is not rare. But as a jeweler first, Arabo has always brought an extra expressiveness to the language of gem setting and watchmaking. This is what makes the Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel-Cut so notable.

There are not a lot of different diamond cuts in the world. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) classifies diamond cuts into three basic categories: brilliant cut (which features kite-shaped facets that radiate from the center, designed for maximum fire and brilliance), step cut (which features facets arranged in rows that resemble steps, producing a more subdued, hall-of-mirrors effect), and mixed cut (which combines elements of both brilliant and step cuts to maximize sparkle and luster). Everything else is a variation on these themes.
 

Diamonds also need light to shine. Examine an engagement ring, for example. The setting is open at the back to let light shine through, so it can reflect off all the facets. This is what creates the stone’s sparkle. With watches, this can be a challenge because the construction of the case and the fact that the movement sits behind the dial usually work together to prevent light from shining all the way through.

Previous versions of the Billionaire employed emerald- and Asscher-cut gemstones to complement the collection’s angular geometry. With the Double Tourbillon Angel-Cut, Jacob & Co. has created a completely new, proprietary cut, the Angel-cut, featuring 37 facets and a distinctive lozenge-shaped table, set within a stepped rectangular outline with cut corners.
 

Not only does the rectangular shape better suit the architecture of the timepiece, but it was also developed to improve the light return. According to the brand, this cut features fewer facets than traditional diamond cuts, but each is positioned to maximize optical performance and direct light to create “a visual effect that is at once crisp, fluid, and unusually dimensional.”

Given that this new proprietary, patented diamond cut was developed to mark the American luxury brand’s 40th anniversary, the Billionaire – with its history of flaunting high-carat gemstones – is the perfect timepiece to launch it on.

In a press release, Benjamin Arabov, chief executive officer of Jacob & Co., wrote that it was a “deliberate decision” to launch the new diamond cut on a watch model that “has always been our most uncompromising expression of watchmaking and gem-setting.”
 

“When you develop a patented cut designed to redefine how a diamond interacts with light, it deserves a stage of equal intensity,” he added. “The Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel-Cut is not simply about rarity or carat weight. It is about invention, precision, symmetry, and the confidence to establish a new standard.”

This new 54mm by 41mm Billionaire on the block incorporates a dual flying tourbillon, which is revealed through two openings at 12 and 6 o’clock on the dial. Moreover, through the caseback of this 18-karat white-gold stunner, you can view the hand-wound JCAM50 calibre, which runs at 3Hz and has a power reserve of around 72 hours. It comes set on a blue alligator leather strap with a diamond-set white gold clasp.
 

There is nothing discreet about this watch. From the tourbillon complication to the 79 carats of white diamonds, it is (and I believe this is the technical term) bananas. But the thought that went into the Angel Cut and the placement of each stone brings balance to this particular brand of bananas.

The Jacob & Co. Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel-Cut is limited to 18 pieces and is priced at $3.4 million. For more information, check out the Jacob & Co. website.