Going Deep on Favre Leuba’s Deep Raider Renaissance Models
A new movement, material, and colorway innovations are hallmarks of the modern chapter in Favre Leuba’s ongoing revival and renaissance of its iconic and splendidly artful dive watch.
By Mike Espindle
Executive Editor
Under the thoughtful guidance of former Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrick Hoffman, the rebirth of legacy Swiss watchmaker Favre Leuba continues to go from strength to strength.
When he began his custodianship of the brand in 2024, Hoffman commented: “Favre Leuba is not just a watch brand; it’s a symbol of resilience and innovation for the entire watchmaking industry. We honor our past and our collective heritage while embracing the future, creating watches that embody the pioneering spirit of our founders.” After all, Favre Leuba is recognized as Switzerland’s second-oldest watchmaker, originally founded in Le Locle in 1737.
That spirit of moving forward while embracing heritage is revealed in the updated Deep Raider collection based on one of the brand’s most iconic models: the Deep Blue dive watch.
Riffs on that timepiece, three Favre Leuba Deep Raider Renaissance executions in multiple exciting colorways, and two Deep Raider Renaissance models, created with both meteorite and malachite dials, are all a testament to the relevance and flexibility of the heritage design, and perhaps a hint at even more to come?
Deep Heritage
When it was first introduced in 1964, the Deep Blue was a presciently modern take in the then-growing dive watch arena. With its quirky badging, crosshair dial approach, and 200 meters of water resistance, it presented a more artful, stylish vibe for a pro-quality diver and established a legacy of ongoing out-of-the-(tool)box options for taking a timepiece under the water.
The faithful, stylish, mid-century charm of that original Deep Blue is re-examined in these current Deep Raider Renaissance models, with some powerful modern movement, materials, and color touches, to boot. Let’s take a look.
Renaissance Art
A 40mm steel trio offered in gradient-effect classic black, ocean blue, and vibrant green dial and bezel executions kicks off our examination of the Deep Raider Renaissance line and stands as proof that the brand’s already design-pushing original dive watch traits can present as perfectly modern and timely.
On a three-link steel bracelet, the Renaissance models’ tell-tale crosshair dial design, abundant lume, and minimalist recessed date circle at 4:30 are largely retained from the original Deep Blue’s design, but several updates bring these timepieces into today’s waters.
First, the water resistance rating has now been increased to 300 meters. Meanwhile, the uni-directional bezels (a telling pro detail that increases diving safety) are now ceramic and color-matched to the dials. Moreover, case-finishing details have been stepped up using modern, more luxurious techniques (most notably, the tapered lugs with chamfered edges). Plus, the models with expertly color-matched rubber straps give this piece an even more modern look.
However, the biggest news here is a modern movement: the precision, self-winding FLD02 calibre boasts a 68-hour power reserve. Unexpectedly, and via the exhibition caseback, you can get an excellent view of the above-and-beyond (for a dive watch) movement finishing, including Côte de Genève work on the main plate and soleillage (sunburst) and colimmaçonage (snailing) finishing on a skeletonized 4N gold rotor.
These three Favre Leuba Deep Raider Renaissance models list for $2,950 each on a steel bracelet and $2,850 on a rubber strap.
Stone Free
Okay, for these purposes, we will consider a meteorite to be a stone (although, technically, meteorites are crystalline in structure). And, while the Jimi Hendrix song my subhead references was recorded just three years after the 1964 Deep Blue’s introduction, Favre Leuba’s surprising use of dial materials in this Deep Raider duo certainly expands your mind beyond what you might expect from a dive watch.
A 40mm steel Deep Raider Renaissance with dials crafted with inherently unique meteor slices (a first for the brand) injects some cosmic influence into your diving life, but also injects a profound element of sophistication.
While all of the new-era collection can certainly take you from ocean depths to the depths of elegant socializing, the appearance of dials derived from the 4.56-billion-year-old Muonionalusta meteorite, discovered in Sweden in 1906, is particularly well-colored and textured. Think a more angular, metallic effect to an almost mother-of-pearl zeitgeist (which would be a more expected move on a dive watch, BTW), framed by a black/grey ceramic uni-directional bezel.
Powered by the same decorated FLD02 movement and sporting the same performance specs as the color-dial trio above, this addition to the Deep Raider collection is available for $3,900 on a steel bracelet and $3,800 on a rubber strap.
To really up the elegance ante, a 40mm steel Deep Raider Renaissance model with an alluring striated malachite dial (and complementary green or black/grey ceramic unidirectional dive bezel) makes a strong statement. Again, this is the first use of this sophisticated, always unique material on a Favre Leuba timepiece, and the layered emerald-green and mineral-effect stonework is truly stunning.
Expect the modern calibre and overall function and performance of its siblings for this Deep Raider Renaissance, which retails for $3,700 on a steel bracelet and $3,600 on a color-matched green rubber strap.
For more information, check out the Favre Leuba website.