Perpetually Thin: Vacheron Constantin Slims Down Two Golden Overseas Perpetual Calendar Models
With stunning pink and white gold executions of its perpetual calendar-equipped Overseas timepieces powered by a movement that is just over 4mm thick, the watchmaker makes a strong case for less definitely being more.
By Mike Espindle
Executive Editor
Ever since Vacheron Constantin debuted the Overseas model in the mid-1990s and revivified the collection in 2016, the timepiece has come to define the legacy maker’s handsome, and, I’ll just say it, sportier side.
The overall “canvas” of the watch’s presentation, however, has become one of those rare designs that just plays well with a seemingly limitless number of variations and horological intents without breaking its inherent iconic form.
Want to lean even more into a sporty-adventure message with 2021’s Dual-Time “Everest” variants as well as 2023’s steel “Panda” chronograph execution? No problem.
Craving the trendy dial color and the added gold and bejeweled luxury of last year’s Dual Time models? That’s still comfortably in the Oversea collection’s wheelhouse.
How about adding all the complications, like the impressive titanium Overseas Grand Complication Openface from earlier this year? That presentation of that complicated masterpiece sits perfectly within the Overseas design zeitgeist.
Unexplored Territory
Perhaps one of the few design frontiers left for the versatile Overseas is the idea of combining impactful complication with a new language of unexpected, elegant thinness.
Of course, we already knew that a perpetual calendar function matched up with the Overseas. That is why going thinner carried some risk; it could have unbalanced the overall formula.
With the two new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models, the designers have proven that the appeal of the timepiece isn’t all about the heft of the past. In fact, the slimmed-down versions actually bring a new, sophisticated conversation to the Overseas party.
Movement Reduction
The self-winding Manufacture Calibre 1120 QP/1 that powers the new Ultra-Thins not only manages to deliver the perpetual calendar function of the model’s name, but it also controls an exacting moonphase display (and does so at the thickness of 4.05mm). Compare that to the movements of previous Overseas models, which can run much thicker, and what you end up with is an overall case depth of just 8.1mm for these new slimmer Overseas models.
In addition, the shrunken movement’s calendar performance stands toe-to-toe with the most advanced mechanical QPs available, not needing any manual adjustment until the year 2100; even then, just a modification for centenary years that are not leap years.
Of course, per Vacheron Constantin DNA, the movement receives abundant elegant decoration, including a 22K gold oscillating rotor in a compass rose design, Côte de Genève finishing, straight- and circular-graining, and chamfering, all of which is viewable through an exhibition caseback. Surprisingly, even with the added complications and challenging thinness, the Manufacture Calibre 1120 QP/1 provides 40 hours of power reserve.
Oftentimes, the indicators necessary to deliver perpetual calendar functions can add a level of preciousness or fussiness to a timepiece’s dial. However, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin’s calendar sub-dials are gauge-like, straightforward, and, dare I say, technical. But this approach dovetails very nicely with the watch’s sportier leanings.
The simplified presentation of the moonphase indicator lies right in its 6 o’clock position, completing the dial’s harmonious balance without overwhelming the situation.
Gold Mine
It is an easy conclusion to reach that the new 18K 5N pink gold Ref. 4300V/220R-H144 strikes the more classically elegant pose of the two. The 41.5mm pink gold case sophisticates the Overseas’ signature “lug” style bezel and frames the hue-on-hue approach of the pink gold dial.
Only some light blue details on the month indicator at 12 o’clock and along the numeral ring on the flange, as well as blue-lumed hands and markers, interrupt the sea of gold, which culminates in a pink gold bracelet with half-Maltese cross-shaped links (there are also complementing interchangeable rubber straps in dark blue and white offered as options).
Meanwhile, the 18K white gold Ref. 4300V/220G-H151, though sporting the same dimensions as its sibling, takes a harder run at the Overseas’ modern, sporty vibe, especially when you consider the way this model’s dramatic sunburst burgundy lacquer dial gleams off the white gold case and bracelet construction.
On this dial, the same light blue details and lume join a white gold moon as chromatic pops from the fluid burgundy of the dial real estate. This Ultra-Thin is presented on an 18K white gold bracelet with the same Maltese-flavored link design as its pink gold sibling, and rubber strap options are offered in dial-matching burgundy and bold white.
In a testament to the adventurous spirit of even these elegantly slim Overseas examples, both models sport a soft iron casing ring to combat magnetism, and both are certified to 50 meters of water resistance.
Pricing & Availability
Released today, no pricing information was available at press time for the new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models, but you can learn more via the Vacheron Constantin website.