A Closer Look: Glashütte Original Expands Its Universe with the Platinum New PanoLunarTourbillon

I have been privileged to visit Glashütte, a village in the Saxony region of Germany, on three occasions. I even wrote a two-part article about how the region’s unique geography and history have influenced watchmaking traditions (Part 1 | Part 2).

Now, Glashütte Original has written its own love note to the region by opening the first-ever dial manufactory in this tiny town. This facility is being launched just in time for the 180th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte, so the brand is marking both occasions with a limited-edition version of one of its most storied timepieces, the PanoLunarTourbillon.

This anniversary edition of the PanoLunarTourbillon is first and foremost a testament to Glashütte Original’s commitment to craftsmanship, tradition, and the region. Visit any Maison in the Glashütte area and you’ll meet second, third, and even fourth generations of watchmakers on the factory floor.
 

The history of Glashütte as a horological destination dates back to the 1880s when iron ore-rich hills surrounding the town were finally stripped bare. To reinvigorate the economy, the government came up with a scheme that encouraged watchmakers to relocate to this idyllic yet somewhat isolated location. Glashütte Original, along with A. Lange & Söhne and Moritz Grossmann were among these brands established under this scheme.

Glashütte Original has made great advances in three complications: The flying tourbillon (invented in Glashütte by master watchmaker Alfred Helwig in 1920), the panorama date (also known as a big date), and the curved moon phase display positioned at 2 o’clock.
 

While the region’s geopolitical and economic fortunes have shifted dramatically over the decades, these three features have emerged as symbols of the brands' ingenuity and resilience.

Another notable hallmark of Glashütte Original is its dial-making prowess. In fact, I would even put the glowing colors and fascinating textures of a GO dial up there with anything put out by Grand Seiko and Moser. And that was before its dial-making facilities were in the same town!

The shimmering, rose-colored dial of this PanoLunarTourbillon tribute recalls the reddish hues of iron-rich soil that surrounds the town of Glashütte. This effect is achieved through an elaborate process of galvanization.
 

Due to the crystalline structure of the surface, the exact shades of red may vary, depending on the play of light and the angle at which you observe the surface. Meanwhile, the concentric circles, as well as the blued hands and hour markers, of the off-center hour and minute display on the left side offer a visual contrast to the rest of the dial.

On the reverse side, one can observe the brand’s Calibre 93-03 automatic movement, which features a silicon balance spring. This movement beats at 21,600 VpH and provides a 60-hour power reserve. The off-center rotor mirrors the asymmetrical layout of the front display, and in another Glashütte tradition, the movement features such fine finishes as striping, perlage, and beveling.
 

Of course, a watch containing all of Glashütte Original’s greatest hits deserves platinum status. Thus, the fine dial and cutting-edge complications of the PanoLunarTourbillon are housed in a 47mm (lug-to-lug) x 40mm (diameter) x 12.7mm (thickness) polished and satin-brushed platinum case.

It’s a big, heavy watch, but its many complications justify the size. Besides, the warmth of the rosy dial and the elegance of the platinum make it look more formal and less bulky.

Limited to just 50 pieces, the PanoLunarTourbillon comes on either a blue Louisiana alligator or blue synthetic strap and is now available from the brand’s boutiques and select retailers for $126,600. For more information, check out the Glashütte Original website.