Pure Porcelain: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial SPB497

Current economic forces make collecting more expensive, which in turn makes collectors more selective. The community has adjusted by prioritizing curiosity over accumulation, specifically regarding the many dial materials and techniques available to the watchers.

Since the Presage collection’s inception in 2016, Seiko has rewarded the curious by making traditional Japanese craft as important to the pieces of this collection as any complication. Thus, we were not wildly surprised to see that the latest member of the Presage Classic family – the 40.6mm Presage Classic Series Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial SPB497 – features an unglazed Arita porcelain dial.

That said, this watch led us down a deep and satisfying rabbit hole of research into the history and technology behind this four-century-old tradition, from which we could not easily escape.

It has been almost ten years since Seiko introduced the Presage line – a premium dress watch collection that occupies the space just below King Seiko. To establish its place in the Seiko hierarchy, the watchmaker has leaned into such artisanal techniques through dials made with enamel, urushi lacquer, Shippo enamel, and Arita porcelain. 
 

To that end, the Classic Series, a sub-family within the Presage collection, serves as a kind of lab that preserves the traditional skills of these Japanese handicrafts while also translating them into new creations that draw from the colors, materials, and textures of these crafts.

And the latest subject in this elite experiment is the Seiko Presage Classic Series Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial SPB497.

“Arita ware” is a term used to describe Japanese porcelain manufactured in and around the town of Arita. It also provides a particularly satisfying story for research nerds because of its impact and influence on international design.

Hard-paste, or “true porcelain,” which is the type made in Japan, is distinguished by its bright white, almost translucent appearance. This appearance is in part due to the presence of kaolin in the clay used to manufacture it (Fun Fact: Kaolin is also used to create high-quality paper that is typically found in magazines).
 

Originating in China and highly coveted around the world for its refined appearance and decoration, by the end of the 16th century, Chinese porcelain exports had been seriously disrupted by civil wars as the Ming dynasty crumbled. Around the same time, a clay suitable for making porcelain was discovered in the town of Arita, Japan. Here’s where geopolitical machinations come into play…

Following a 1592 invasion of Korea, Japan basically forced Korean potters to the land of the rising sun to build better, more advanced kilns (to which Japanese potteries quickly flocked). At first, these plates and vessels employed European shapes and mostly Chinese decoration, but gradually, the Chinese and Korean techniques being used merged, resulting in distinct Japanese styles.
 

For example, early Arita ware used a blue and white underglaze decoration, like Chinese ceramics; however, by the mid-17th century, Arita was at the forefront as Japan developed the overglaze “enameled” techniques, resulting in pieces with a range of bright colors, as seen in Nabeshima ware and Kakiemon. Thus, Arita ware evolved into a uniquely Japanese form of artwork.

Today, Japan preserves and promotes its traditional arts and crafts, or kogei, by officially recognizing individuals who are considered masters of a culturally important art, craft, or performing art as “Living National Treasures.” These individuals are then provided with a generous annual grant to preserve and develop Japan’s unique and diverse kogei.

Seiko recognizes that for a craft to survive in the modern world, it must speak to contemporary needs. Perhaps that is why, for the first time in the Presage collection, the brand is using unglazed porcelain – a comparatively new technique within the four-century-old tradition of Arita porcelain – that allows for a broader range of expression and exceptionally refined designs.

Under the supervision of Arita porcelain master craftsman Hiroyuki Hashiguchi, the dials for the SPB497 were created by Toshiaki Kawaguchi and his colleagues at a manufacturing firm in Arita that has been making porcelain since 1830. The use of Arita porcelain watch dials is one facet of Seiko’s commitment to preserving horological culture and technical skills for future generations, which keeps in mind Goal 9 of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) set by the United Nations: “Build resilient infrastructure, promote inclusive and sustainable industrialization and foster innovation.”
 

Typically, Arita porcelain is glazed, lending it a smooth and glassy finish. However, given the combination of ingredients and the fact that it is fired at an extremely high temperature, this unglazed porcelain still has a matte yet vitreous finish (think of the surface of sea glass).

This unique texture and warm, eggshell white hue serve to enhance the dial’s intricate pattern. This traditional rhombus (or hishi) motif is molded into the surface of the unglazed Arita porcelain dial, most prominently in the areas surrounding its indices, providing the dial with a domed and three-dimensional appearance.
 

This pattern has been considered an auspicious motif symbolizing the prosperity of descendants and good health, and it has been widely used in Arita porcelain ware. The gold-colored indices and hands stand out beautifully against the matte white dial, creating a striking contrast.

Continuing with the tradition of innovation, the SPB497 is powered by Caliber 6R51, one of the newest additions to the mechanical 6R series.

The new 40.6mm Presage Classic Series Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial SPB497 is priced at $1,850 and will be available as a limited edition of 1,200 at Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners worldwide from July 2025. For more information, check out the Seiko website.