Happy Happy Birthday Birthday, Bvlgari Bvlgari!
The classic watch celebrates its 50th anniversary with a limited-edition timepiece and a high-jewelry collection.
When it was first introduced in 1975, the Bvlgari Roma, the precursor to the Bvlgari Bvlgari model, was intended as a gift for the esteemed Roman luxury brand’s most valued customers. Who would have thought that fifty years later, it would be the gift that keeps giving?
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Bvlgari Bvlgari watch collection, Bulgari has chosen to commemorate the original BB model by reimagining it as four new pieces featuring marble dials.
A Brief History
The Bvlgari Bvlgari was first conceived in 1975 by Gianni Bulgari as a gift for the brand’s top clients. Because the Bulgari brand makes everything from high jewelry to luxurious fragrances, he wanted to create a timepiece that would be an expression of all the company’s interests as well as its Roman roots.
This watch, the Bvlgari Roma, featured a flat, yellow gold case inspired by ancient coins, a leather and hemp macramé strap with a yellow gold buckle, and a digital display, which was so en vogue at the time. Bulgari produced only 100 pieces of this watch; however, the design proved so popular that the Maison released an analog version of it that same year.
Two years later, in 1977, Gérald Genta reinterpreted the analog design, adding a distinctive double use of the logo, inspired by ancient Roman coin inscriptions, to the case, which was a first in watchmaking. Thus, the Maison renamed its first signature watch collection Bvlgari Bvlgari.
By the 1980s, this simple, circular timepiece had become a favorite of a new wave of celebrities, including Sting, George Michael, and Tina Turner. And even though you could argue that its famously signed bezel kicked off that decade’s logomania trend, these stars still managed to make the watch part of their signature.
Bringing The BB Back
The mix of upscale materials with an unfussy time-only display also explains why the Bvlgari Bvlgari has never really gone out of fashion. Its classical background allows for all kinds of variations.
For example, these 50th-anniversary models are available in two case sizes, 26mm and 38mm. And the dials are made of marble to evoke the grandeur of Roman antiquity. Of course, Bulgari has long incorporated marble into its jewelry creations.
Here, the Maison treats this material with the same reverence as a precious stone. Think of how the flesh of a Michelangelo sculpture feels luminous and alive when viewed up close. Similarly, the natural veining of these dials has a kind of glowing effect.
Finely engraved with a special anniversary marking, two versions feature a “Verde Alpi” green marble dial set in a yellow gold case (the 26mm ref. 10411 and the 38mm ref. 104112).
Meanwhile, the other two, the 26mm ref. 104191 and the 38mm ref. 104113 are available in rose gold and feature blue marble dials. The larger model’s dial is crafted from deep blue “Blu Incanto” marble, while the smaller version displays icy blue “Azzurro Infinito” marble.
Both 26mm models are adorned with diamond hour markers, while the 38mm versions house the Solotempo automatic movement, calibre BVL 191, offering a 42-hour power reserve.
Taking its cue from ancient Roman coin engravings, the Bvlgari Bvlgari’s bezel boldly bears the brand’s name, asserting its singular identity. The distinctive Roman-style typography, introduced in 1934 during the renovation of the Via Condotti flagship boutique, has since become a hallmark of the brand.
Beyond the inscription, the watch’s design draws deeply from the visual language of the Eternal City, its silhouette echoing the marble columns of the Pantheon or the peristyles of Rome’s monumental architecture. With the debut of natural stone dials, the Maison presents a stunning reinterpretation of the collection for its 50th anniversary.
But That’s Not All
Back in September 2023, Watchonista’s Ashken Longet and Pierre Vogel had the pleasure of visiting Bulgari’s archives in Rome. And among the treasures housed there were rare Monete jewelry pieces. Distinguished by the setting of ancient Greek and Roman coins into jewelry, the Monete collection was established in the 1960s when Nicola Bulgari, the grandson of the brand’s founder and an avid coin collector, pushed for the innovative integration of ancient coins into contemporary jewelry designs.
These incredible creations would go on to inspire the typography and engraving on the bezel of the Bvlgari Bvlgari collection.
Despite these nods to the past, “the Bvlgari Bvlgari watch is both simple and bold, always in tune with the times,” explains Bulgari’s Product Creation Executive Director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. “Its pure design perfectly embodies our DNA without the need for additional ornamentation. Today, the Maison revisits the spirit of its original creation, subtly enhanced by modern technology.”
This Bvlgari Bvlgari jewelry collection also celebrates craft innovation. For example, the legendary ring that Watchonista viewed in 2023 – the one with the disk that flips, allowing the wearer to switch between different gemstone inserts. The collection also includes a striking 18 kt yellow gold necklace with a matching bracelet and a playful, versatile sautoir.
These pieces feature disks inlaid with mother-of-pearl on one side and onyx on the other, as well as a substantial handmade chain. For extra wrist stacking, there is also a wire bracelet – available in 18 kt rose gold with mother-of-pearl or 18 kt yellow gold with black onyx details.
The best thing about these beauties is that they are meant to be worn and loved every day. It’s impressive that a watch that’s turning 50 still has a sense of youthful wonder.
Pricing & Availability
Available now, the 26mm Bvlgari Bvlgari pieces each cost $12,800, while the 38mm versions cost $17,000 each. Both rose gold models are non-limited; however, both yellow gold executions are limited to 150 pieces each.
For more information, check out Bulgari’s website.