The Watchmaking Trends of 2025: Materials
In-depth

The Watchmaking Trends of 2025: Materials

While a wristwatch is, first and foremost, a mechanical instrument designed to display the time, it’s also a stylistic object that follows the evolving codes of design, ergonomics, and materials.

By Marco Gabella
Chairman & Executive Publisher

When watches were still pocket-sized, gold and silver reigned supreme, with mid-range models utilizing rhodium-plated pewter (to imitate silver) or gold plating. World War I brought the watch to the wrist with transitional models adapted from pocket watches. Then, World War II and the 1950s cemented stainless steel as the standard for case construction, establishing waterproofing principles still relevant today.

Although fiberglass, ceramics, and titanium appeared in watch cases as early as the 1970s and 1980s, it wasn’t until the 1995–2005 era that non-traditional materials saw a real resurgence, spurring further research and application.

This ongoing evolution has become a full-fledged saga. And in 2025, it is clear that the diversification of watch materials is more dynamic than ever.

The Ecstasy of Gold

For the past two decades, white gold and platinum have dominated the category of precious metals for their discreet, understated luxury. But 2025 marks a turning point: the return of yellow and rose gold is in full swing.
 

Take the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds, with its spectacular Milanese mesh bracelet made from 16 meters of woven gold, and the bold-shaped Piaget Sixtie as two examples; both embody this renaissance.
 

Meanwhile, with Cut Le Temps Suspendu, Hermès brings horological poetry to life through a singular complication housed in a full-gold case. The visual impact is unmistakable.
 

Ceramic is the New Chic

As challenging as it is captivating, ceramic has gradually earned its place in fine watchmaking thanks to advances in colorization and structural stability. Today, efforts to push the chromatic envelope and integrate ceramic into bracelet components, which was once thought impossible, underscore its evolution.
 

Chanel, a pioneer in luxury ceramics, once again demonstrates its savoir-faire with the Chanel J12 Bleu Caliber 12.1 38mm, where the rich, dark blue, scratch-resistant, and durable matte ceramic material used for the case and bracelet subtly enhances the watch’s aesthetic architecture
 

For something bolder and sportier, the all-black IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 42 Ceramic stands out – especially among collectors of the Genta-inspired icon.

Meanwhile, Hublot has been developing and producing some of the most vibrant colored ceramics in the industry for the past 10 years. Released in February of this year, the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, featuring a blue and black, multi-colored ceramic insert on the bezel that is a single piece (no glue involved), is further proof of that.
 

Although the technique the brand used to achieve this incredible feat remains mysterious, it likely involves some form of alloying, adding a layer of intrigue to its visual appeal.

Full Titanium

Once the go-to material for sports watches due to its light weight and toughness, 2025 has seen titanium move firmly into the realm of high-end, technical timepieces.

For example, with its full-titanium construction, Guebly made its stunning debut in the world of fine watchmaking in March 2025 with the release of the brand’s inaugural piece, the CH1 Rétrograde.

 

Its sculptural, faceted case highlights the metal’s austere elegance, while its extraordinary mechanical movement also incorporates titanium bridges and plates. The CH1 Rétrograde is a true showcase of traditional finishing applied to a very modern material.
 

At the top end, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF uses titanium to reflect the ultra-high-frequency nature of its 8Hz movement.
 

Finally, the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] set a new benchmark for lightness by relying on titanium’s rigidity to deliver one of the most lightweight and durable structures ever created.
 

Pushing the Limits: Extreme Materials

Since the first Rafael Nadal-inspired models by Richard Mille, resin has gained legitimacy in watchmaking. But this year, the material has truly taken flight, with several bold innovations.

Leading the charge is the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition. Its case is crafted from a novel composite made of quartz fibers, aluminized basalt fibers, CaCO3, and light blue resin that creates an enchanting design reminiscent of the colors and patterns of age-old glacial ice found in Antarctica, with its interlocking networks of crystals.
 

Next, F.P.Journe took on an entirely different challenge with the Chronomètre Furtif, machining tungsten carbide for both the case and bracelet, with tantalum accents. It’s a production feat made possible by Boîtiers et Cadranniers de Genève, a subsidiary of Montres Journe SA.
 

Meanwhile, among the great independents, Franck Muller has previously experimented with aluminum for movement structures. However, in 2025, the brand took its fascination with this material to the next level when the Vanguard Royal Bauxite debuted as a full-aluminum watch, case and all, and comes in a range of vibrant chromatics thanks to the brand’s use of colored bauxite.
 

And receive each week a custom selection of articles.