The guilloché technique was invented in the 17^th century. It was originally executed, using a very simple form of lathe, on soft materials such as ivory and wood to produce decorative ornaments for architecture and furniture. As more sophisticated machines were developed in the course of the 18^th century, guilloché was gradually applied on hard metals and on a relatively large scale as industrial demand grew rapidly. 

 

Two types of machines are to be found. The first enables the engraving of straight lines or undulations, whereas the second type is specifically designed for circular patterns. However, the principle is the same in both cases: a smooth plate, fixed to the guillocheuse, follows a regular vertical or circular movement (depending on the type of machine) and is decorated by a burin attached on a horizontal axis. Different shaped rotating wheels, operated manually and also called “rosettes”, guide the movement of the guillocheuse to create a circular pattern. To engrave straight lines or wave patterns, the machine is guided by different shaped “rakes”, positioned vertically. 

 

The quality and the complexity of these miniature engravings, sometimes no more than a tenth of a millimeter, depend entirely on the delicate touch of the guillocheur, for whom the machine is only an extension of his hands. He must be careful not to carve too deeply and ensure that a consistent force is applied for each thread. “Rosettes” and “rakes” represent the repertoire of the guillocheur, and an important part of his artistic work is to imagine new combinations of shapes and to apply them in such a way that they will produce a harmonious and pleasing pattern. 

 

Particularly well-known in the field of exclusive watchmaking, the guilloché technique was, however, also used to decorate many other small luxurious objects: expensive pens, cigarette lighters, snuff boxes, jewellery, mirrors, hair-styling accessories, etc. Although used mainly on precious metals, such as gold or silver, guillochage was also used on organic materials such as wood, ivory or even coconut. 

 

In contemporary Haute Horlogerie, DeWitt is now one of the very few remaining watch-makers to perpetuate the art of guilloché on historical 18^th, 19^th and 20^th century rose-engine machines. Nickolas Bernard, DeWitt’s master guillocheur, still passionately cultivates the secrets of this art on the three historical machines of the Manufacture. Though the process of decorating dials or even movement components is extremely time-consuming, there is no substitute for the beauty and elegance of hand-engraved guilloché.