Union Horlogère Geneva-Bienne - Collection 1901
This timepiece, a favourite already in 2012, is continuing its breakthrough discreetly and igniting even more interest. Bit by bit, Union Horlogère is ingeniously introducing the watches of the Collection 1901 onto the markets.
By Joel Grandjean
Editor-in-Chief
Union Horlogère are conservative in their design of elaborate timepieces. They resolutely deploy contemporary technology to follow a philosophy that obeys the original codes by highlighting the importance of traditional handcrafts. This comeback brings with it vintage hues and polish mesh bracelets…
In-house calibres and cases
The brand, which straddles Bienne and Geneva, has its own micro-manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. That is where they designed two in-house calibres from scratch: the three-hand UH003 and the UH007, a chronograph. These two movements are the pride and joy of the brand's watchmakers. They were built as indestructible engines and put the quest for precision and efficiency ahead of any ornamentation or marketing bells and whistles. These calibres are faithful to the spirit of orthodox practices and therefore decorated according to the established rules even for components not visible on the outside. Their unidirectional oscillating mass reminds us of ancient rounding-up machines.
Everything is manufactured in-house and with passion: special screws, the so-called Louis XV crown – that will inevitably remind the connoisseur of the pocket watches of our forefathers – the delightfully rounded and smoothed hands. As for the case, it is also manufactured at the Geneva facility. The same harmoniously balanced architecture was used for the two versions: one in 5N pink gold, and the other in argentium sterling silver. Moreover, the manufacture is open to visitors. Its guests are given the opportunity to see rare and antique machines that are hardly museum pieces since they still have a rich future in the hands of a purist watchmaker.
As it was done in the old times, each UH 1901 is signed by the person who has patiently worked on its fine-tuning, on its ornaments, on its assembly and, of course, on the subsequent functioning and reliability tests.
Polish mesh
It takes a long time to make timepieces of such high quality and finish. So, whilst the first batch of watches was being delivered, the team was optimising the look of the cases and reviving some neglected shades of colour. To round off the retro flair provided by the leather strap with old-fashioned stitching, the brand decided to do some artisanal plaiting.
The Union Horlogère Collection 1901
5N gold case, chocolate vintage dial. The name Union Horlogère, which became a brand in 2012, is part and parcel of the history of horology as originally written by Gottlieb Hauser.
Union Horlogère, which set up shop in Geneva in 1901, was in its time, on the roster of the most renown brands, like Gruen, Alpina, Hamilton and even Rolex.
Independence and aesthetics
Union Horlogère manufactures the cases for its Collection 1901 itself in its workshop in Plan-les-Ouates. The brand uses pink gold, but is also a pioneer in the use of argentium in horology, an alloy of silver and germanium. Inside their pieces, they place one of two in-house calibres, a chronograph, or a three-hand automatic. The unidirectionally oscillating mass that evokes ancient rounding-up tools is also machined and decorated by the company's watchmakers. The watch’s finish, the new brand developed boasts a refreshing vintage look, with such elements as the Louis XV crown that evokes ancient pocket watches. The dials are made of mother-of-pearl, the hands are smoothly rounded. The colours are drawn from history.