The 5711 May Be Going Away, But Patek Philippe Will Be Just Fine
As we say goodbye to the iconic steel Patek Nautilus 5711, Patek Philippe proves once more that it is more than just a steel integrated bracelet timepiece.
There has never been a doubt that Patek Philippe is a master of watchmaking. And this year, its Watches & Wonders releases only attest to that more and more. These new pieces proved that Patek didn't need the 5711 in its lineup to make waves. Recently, Watchonista had the opportunity to get hands-on with the novelties, and here is our take.
5711/1300A – A Fond Farewell
While the green dial has, so far, been omnipresent in 2021, Patek Philippe also embraced this trend for the swansong of its famous steel 5711, giving the 5711/1300A an olive-green dial enhanced by the iconic embossed horizontal motif. However, the dial color reminded me of vintage Patek Philippe Nautili (Nautiluses?) when seen in person with their beautifully patinated blue dial.
The real showstopper is the famous octagonal bezel set with 32 flawless Top Wesselton baguette-cut diamonds (approximately 3.6 carats). Making it more unique, each of the 32 diamonds has a slightly trapezial shape to fit perfectly on the round corners of the octagonal bezel. To some, the choice of one of the most expensive cuts of diamonds may appear somewhat odd on stainless steel timepieces. However, I would like to think that it is the perfect way to bid a fond farewell to such an iconic reference.
5990/1R – The Perfect Pairing
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1R plays with the rose gold and blue embossed dial pairing. While the timepiece holds five complications, the dial is legible and not overly cluttered. The rose gold 40.5mm timepiece is a statement maker. Its lines are as elegant as the 5711, but the piece plays an entirely different note.
The two time zones, flyback chronograph, 60-minute counter, analog date, and the day-night indicator are all powered by the calibre CH 28520 C FUS that can be admired on the caseback. And though the height of the timepiece is still 12.53mm, it fits well on the wrist. Overall, the new 5990/1R is bold but a great reflection of Patek Philippe's savoir-faire in the field of sports watches.
5236P – The Showstopper
Of all the Patek Philippe releases, the Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P is by far my favorite. The first detail that caught my eye was the radiant blue dial which appears to have been delicately satin-brushed. At 12 o'clock, the day, date, and month aperture keeps the dial extremely legible, unlike most traditional QPs. To achieve that, Patek Philippe's watchmakers and engineers developed a brand-new movement, the 31-260 PS QL, featuring an extra in-line display module for which the brand has filed three patent applications.
On the wrist, it looks as great as you would expect. It's a real conversation starter. Understated and elegant, you wouldn't guess at first glance that it has a Perpetual calendar. The 41.3mm platinum case is relatively thin (11.07mm), especially for a brand-new movement design. The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5236P can be yours for $130,110.
6119G – A New Classic
Patek Philippe is known to be refined, elegant, and the epitome of understated luxury. And all these descriptors apply the new Calatrava. With a more modern, fresher look, the new Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6119G is sure to captivate audiences.
The dial takes some inspiration from the 5236P, with a vertical satin finish on its charcoal gray surface. However, at 39mm, the diameter of this white gold timepiece is slightly larger than the 5236P. Extremely thin, thanks to manually wound movement 30-255 PS, the 6119G is only 8.1mm thick. And on the wrist, it looks especially sophisticated with the refined "Clous de Paris" pattern on the bezel. In fact, the new Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6119G might be the perfect watch for the celebratory businessman or businesswoman!
While the collecting world might be a bit saddened by the departure of the cool, stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, the future is bright for the Geneva-based brand. It was more than time to shine a brighter light on Patek Philippe's other collections and skills, and the discontinuation of the 5711 was the right way to do it.
These 2021 releases show that there is still something for every taste, and we shouldn't long for the departed steel sports watch. Collectors of beautiful and traditional horology, rejoice!
(Photography by Liam O'Donnell)