03/31/2022

Live Pics! Patek Philippe’s Watches & Wonders 2022 Novelties: Expectations vs. Reality

While social media was abuzz with leaks and theories about what each brand would introduce at Watches & Wonders 2022, Watchonista’s own J.J. Owens traveled to Geneva to share her take on the actual Patek Philippe novelties.

By Jessica “J.J.” Owens

Contributor

I’m sure everybody reading this is already aware, but yesterday was the first day of Watches & Wonders 2022. The press embargo floodgates opened, and a veritable deluge of articles saturated the online watch community.

However, as overwhelming and exhausting as the first day of a major show can be, at least we finally get to dispel the rumor mill and see what brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe are actually releasing.

We already recapped Rolex’s novelties yesterday. So, today we look at how Patek Philippe’s releases stacked up to pre-show expectations.

Exceeding Expectations

One of my favorite releases of Watches & Wonders is Patek’s Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G, as it is filled with paradoxes.

For starters, I was really hoping for Patek to play around with strap materials, as juxtaposing high complications with unorthodox bands has always been a specialty of the maison (no further example is needed than the Aquanaut with its rubber strap), and I wasn’t disappointed. As someone whose style is based on mixing t-shirts and tweed jackets, the contrast between the annual calendar and nubuck finished strap is where complicated and casual meet.

The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G © Patek Philippe

With this reference being the watchmaker’s first annual calendar timepiece with a travel time display system, this technical masterpiece (priced at $76,880) is an instant hit. Though the 5326 features the utmost technical prowess, the appeal is in features like the strap and Calatrava-esque case that make this watch wearable. Watches are meant to be worn, and this piece proves that very sentiment.

Caseback Of The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

Going Green (Again)

In 2021, the most coveted dial color was green. Every brand was doing it. Yet Patek chose to do it again in 2022 but in a brighter shade than the brand’s highly coveted khaki hue. But in what I can only explain as a bid to prove why green dials are here to stay, the release of the World Time Ref. 7130R ($57,960) and the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270P ($211,720) are prime examples of just how striking green can be, especially as the backdrop to a complication (or two).

The Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 7130R © Patek Philippe

As someone who is very biased to the reference 7130, this far exceeded my expectations, as this green world timer will garner global envy.

The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270P

Slight Surprises

In all honesty, I never expected Patek to continue the trend of green dials, least of all in the Twenty~4.

Don’t get me wrong: If you are looking for an under-the-radar reference, the new green-dialed 4910 will make for effortless daily wear. However, with the arguably sportier release of the Ref. 7300 a few years ago, I was expecting a dial variation for that model, not the reference 4910.

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4910/1200A © Patek Philippe

Finally, we’ve been told there is no new Nautilus, but I am not convinced. Though there was no sign of it at Watches & Wonders 2022, I would be rather surprised if Patek didn’t release one sooner or later.

Closing Thoughts

In full transparency, if I had a crystal ball, I would not be in watches; I would be on a beach in the South of France watching my portfolio rise exponentially. But having said that, being a watch collector for almost half of my life, I can say Patek Philippe did indeed meet my expectations and (mostly) aligned with my own predictions.

The Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G-010

Casebak Of The Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G-010

For more information about the brand’s 2022 novelties, visit the Patek Philippe website.

(Photography by Liam O'Donnell)

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