vacheron constantin

SIHH 2016: the hour of integration

There was a rather positive atmosphere at the Salon on the first day, an atmosphere marked by a desire to integrate new companies. In addition the quality of the products, including some major innovations, do let one have hope for the future. Time to explore...

By Vincent Daveau
Contributor

No two ways about it: the ambiance at this 26th edition of the SIHH, which some had predicted would be lugubrious, seemed instead swept by a wave of optimism.  The heads of the brands we met, like Jérôme Lambert from Montblanc, Juan Carlos Torres from Vacheron Constantin or Alain Zimmermann from Baume & Mercier, were all quite satisfied, because their respective collections feature products that will most pèrobably find a positive resonance in the demands of the market, while others are likely to meet the demands of their most exigent customers.  We are talking about timekeepers that are being sold at a price that would be interesting for the informed afficionado and talking pieces that are sufficiently original or out of the ordinary to make some people dream about ownership.

Baume Mercier Petite Promesse Baume Mercier Petite Promesse

Back to reason

When facing upheavals of the global economy, the brands and manufactures all started offering their fans watches whose reasonable character aimed at keeping them hooked into the market, and to avoid what economists call an unhitching.  Take the Overseas collection by Vacheron Constantin, with its finishing (Poinçon de Genève) and removable bracelet: it starts at about CHF 15,000. Basically, it's not really unreasonable. 

Montblanc Exo Tourbillon Montblanc Exo Tourbillon

Same at Montblanc, where the Exotourbillon 4810 110 Slim is probably the most affordable in its category. It is thin (10 mm) and comes with an automatic caliber with a microrotor. It's a great introduction to the world of watchmaking. In the same spirit, we find the Cartier Drive, in steel – a rare thing for Cartier to launch a collection with this lowly metal – which, considering it has an in-house movement, comes at prices below CHF 6000. And in its class, Baume & Mercier is presenting a very pretty and feminine Petite Promesse set with diamonds and with a strap of the best leather that winds twice around the wrist.

Drive de Cartier Drive de Cartier

Heady stuff

Obviously, the Salon is also the place to discover some mechanical follies. This year, the flash of the first day goes to Parmigiani Fleurier, which we know was recently hit by an internal crisis. In spite of that, it produced a very beautiful chronograph with an in-house "rattrapante" complication, a caliber of outstanding conception, which deserves a longer examination once the excitement of the Salon has died down. For the moment though, take note of the "Mouvement Conceptuel" named Senfine (forever in Esperanto), boasting some unique specifications and performance indicators. When wound up to the fullest extent, it has a power reserve of several weeks. And its balance wheel features an escapement inspired by the one developed by John Harrison at the beginning of the 18th century.

Parmigiani Fleurier Calibre Senfine Parmigiani Fleurier Calibre Senfine

This one, however, has been updated using avant-garde technologies and materials, giving it a futurist balance wheel with an oscillation of just tens of degrees rather than  the average 270 degrees, which translates as very rapid oscillation. But the most astonishing aspect of this piece is the fact that to reduce any parasitical friction, it has no traditional axis, but is carried by two blade springs working, to put it simply, in opposition. It seems to be levitating, and since it is freed from any contact aside from with the air inside the case, a mere nudge keeps the oscillation going for nine minutes… This astonishing escapement can also be installed in a caliber whose barrel and gear train are both perfectly classical. So it can boost the capacities of a standard piece and make it an exceptional one in terms of power reserve and, to make sure all is in good order, precision. To be followed…

Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500v-110a-b126_sdt Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500v-110a-b126

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The 26th edition of the SIHH, wild cards - Part 1

By Marton RadkaiJournalist
The 26th edition of the SIHH, closed its doors recently and so it is time to take a look back over four plus days of watch-watching, of receiving the skinny on...

SIHH 2016: time to take stock

By Vincent DaveauContributor
The moment has now arrived for a summary and debriefing of the 26th edition of the SIHH, the first to feature an expanded group of exhibitors.