Can A Chinese Watchmaker Take On The Swiss? Atelier Wen’s Porcelain Odyssey
In the crowdfunded watchmaking world, you can find anything these days. But little gems that blend design, quality and transparency are rare. Atelier Wen is one of them. These two young entrepreneurs at the helm of the brand successfully restore the aura of ‘Chic Made in China.' Discover!
By Benjamin Teisseire
Contributor
One tends to denigrate the 'Made in China', moniker, but we forget two essential facts: the role China plays in modern watchmaking – even in 'Swiss Made' – and the existence of ancient Chinese know-how.
Chinese experience and know-how
The Chinese watchmaking industry dates back to the 50s, and it is discreetly supplying almost 80% of watch components around the world. The fact that talented artisans exist in China cannot be denied. Moreover, China has 5,000 years of history which have enabled to develop craftsmanship very much present in the luxury world. Think about silk (dating back to 2500 years B.C.), wood lacquer (1600 B.C.) or porcelain (200 B.C.). Chinese savoir-faire exists. You just have to find the right partners.
With this in mind, Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, both 23 years old, launched their idea of creating their own French-Chinese watch brand. Crowdfunding enabled them to offer the best possible price/quality ratio directly to the final client in total transparency and without any complex. The Atelier Wen Porcelain Odyssey speaks for itself. An elegant and distinctive timekeeper with a porcelain dial for less than CHF 500. The USP is crystal clear: quality and chic Chinese watchmaking at the best price.
100% Chinese, 100% Quality
They have sourced a very reliable movement with Peacock, one of the biggest Chinese manufacturers. This bidirectional automatic caliber, Peacock SL-3006, stands comparison with an ETA 2824, which equips a large number of timekeepers around the world. Atelier Wen claims an honorable precision for the price segment of +/- 10s per day. Having worn it for over a week, I reckon it is far better than that. The same goes for the power reserve – announced at 41 hours – which lasts close to 48 hours according to my tests. But humility is also one of Atelier Wen's quality.
For the case, they found a supplier able to meet their advanced quality criteria. They have designed a classic case with subtle details, in 316L Japanese steel, water resistant to 5 ATM. The 39mm diameter, as well as the restrained thickness of 11.7mm, contribute to a very dressy feeling for the watch. Quite efficient. Finishings are well done: the mix of mirror polish of the case and brushed finish on the short lugs’ top reinforces the qualitative impression emanating from the whole.
Porcelain dials
Yes, you have read that correctly, the dials of these first two models, Ji & Hao, are made of real porcelain! A rare, if not inexistent, the material at this price level. A nudge to the glorious Chinese past of this delicate craftsmanship. The beautiful rendering of the porcelain calls for respect. The white version, Hao, almost translucent, is elegantly adorned with light blue Arabic numerals at 2, 4, 8, 10 and 12, as well as a stylized minute rail track. The blue version, Ji, boasts applied baton-style indices at 12, 3 and 9 o'clock with small half spheres in between them. It provides an interesting volume to the face of the timekeeper. They are all rhodium plated just like the leaf hands of the hours and minutes. The minute Railtrack uses the traditional Chinese Huiwen design, a symbol of good fortune. It is very well thought and executed.
Strong symbolism
Faithful to their authenticity and transparency will our two entrepreneurs called upon two local designers, Li Mingliang et Liu Yuguan, to create these dials artfully blending Chinese influences and symbols with classic watchmaking codes. The result is astounding in both models. Particularly on the small seconds sub-counter at 6 o'clock. On the Ji version, the symbols of the old ‘Bagua’ (八卦) concept are found. On the Hao one, an ancient time measurement called You酉 (left) et Mao 卯 (right) is displayed. For all details, it is here.
Both versions are adorned on the case back with an engraving representing the mythical bird Kunpeng. A symbol of transformation and awakening…no doubt induced by the authenticity of their venture. The latter is without contest meaningful.
In the end, Atelier Wen offers with this Porcelain Odyssey a quality timepiece, proudly showcasing its 100% Made in China in total transparency. Truly a great achievement. The most challenging part will be to choose between the radiant blue of the Ji or the immaculate white of the Hao.
After a successful Kickstarter campaign, Atelier Wen continues its fundraising on Indiegogo to develop its production further. Because of the excellent quality/price ratio the brand brings to the table, success should be here once more.