Watches and Wonders: Parmigiani Fleurier Unveils a Revamped Toric Collection

Under the leadership of CEO Guido Tereni, the transformation of Parmigiani Fleurier continues without abandoning the codes and identity established by the brand’s founder and master watchmaker, Michel Parmigiani.

In 1996, the Toric collection was the first-ever collection from Michel Parmigiani’s eponymous brand, establishing the alternating gadroons and detailed knurling that would become one of the maison’s aesthetic signatures.
 

Eventually, with the capability to make its movements, dials, cases, and all other components in-house, the brand was able to create the Toric timepieces with its own design language and adhere to the highest craftsmanship standards (King Charles III is even a long-time owner of a Toric chronograph).

Now, after successfully launching the Tonda PF collection over the past few years, the focus shifts to reviving Parmigiani’s highly storied Toric collection, as the brand unveiled three all-new Toric models at Watches and Wonders this week that are, for lack of a better word, gorgeous.

Almost three decades later, the new Toric collection represents another significant milestone for Parmigiani. The Toric Petite Seconde comprises two 40.6mm models: a platinum version and a rose gold version.
 

Upon first glance, the duo seems merely to be two three-handed timepieces with a small seconds hand positioned at 6 o’clock; however, they are so much more than that because Toric Petite Seconde exudes a contemporary, chic, minimalist elegance in both design and color scheme.

There aren’t any numerals on the dial; instead, there are twelve hour markers on the main dial and four small markers on the seconds sub-dial. Meanwhile, the new compact logo, first seen on the Tonda PF, finds its place under the 12 o’clock position, and the knurled bezel stands out prominently, adding a touch of sophistication. This signature feature offers a practical benefit by preventing visible dings and scratches – no more “ouch, there’s a scratch.”
 

Crafted entirely from either 18-karat white or rose gold, The dial’s exquisite appearance resembles fabric. It’s an illusion created by meticulous hand-graining that achieves a texture of exceptional fineness. A special paste is then delicately applied to the surface, followed by precise polishing with brushes to create an accumulation of tiny grains, resulting in a soft surface.
 

Finally, the dials are not flat but “chevé.” Traditionally a method of shaping glass, when used on these dials, this technique results in edges that drop slightly down to rest against the inner walls of the case.

In pursuit of the highest level of luxury, the movement for the Toric Petite Seconde was crafted in rose gold and designed from the ground up to offer breathtaking aesthetics. Plus, with a movement thickness of only 3.15mm, the watch’s total thickness measures 8.8mm.
 

Three large surfaces in rose gold serve as bridges, presenting a strikingly elegant geometry. Both barrels and the regulating organ are enticingly visible, while the hand-beveled bridges are adorned with Côtes de Fleurier, a diamond pattern unique to the brand.
 

The manual winding movement, Calibre PF780, operates at 4Hz and provides a 60-hour power reserve. Lastly, the Parmigiani team insisted on a sapphire crystal caseback and a pin buckle strap to ensure that this stunning movement could be easily viewed and appreciated.

The third Toric novelty includes a very high-end complication: a rattrapante, or split-seconds chronograph.

Capable of measuring two or more consecutive events, when a split-seconds chronograph function is engaged, both hands move together until the split-second hand is stopped by the pusher on the crown. The split-second hand can then catch up with the moving central hand by the pusher at the crown. Thus, additional events can be timed in the same manner.
 

Called the 42.5mm Toric Chronograph Rattrapante Rose Gold, this 30-piece limited edition features a warm umber dial, a rose gold-plated central seconds hand, and a rhodium-plated split-second hand. More importantly, this piece’s dial and case should be the textbook example of stylish design for complicated functions because, despite having three counters and seven hands, this elegant dial conveys all its information in a clear and minimalist fashion.

Like the Toric Petite Seconde, the overall harmony between the colors of the Toric Chronograph Rattrapante’s dial, case, and leather strap is extremely pleasing to the eye. Meanwhile, the rose gold case, with the knurled bezel, refined crown and pushers, and streamlined lugs, is simply a beauty to behold.
 

If the watch is turned over, the wearer is treated to a spectacular miniature mechanical city constructed in gold. The manual-winding Calibre PF361 is an integrated movement with all elements affixed to the main plate, without using any modules, and includes two column wheels and a vertical clutch.

The movement operates at 5Hz, an incredible feat that enhances the chronograph’s accuracy to the tenth of a second.

Among the numerous releases at Watches and Wonders featuring small tweaks or simple color changes, the new Toric collection distinguishes itself as a bold endeavor to advance horological art by embracing traditional watchmaking while remaining faithful to the brand’s DNA.

Designed to cater to watch aficionados, now and in the future, these Toric timepieces are ideal dress watches and serve as excellent foils to the brand’s sporty Tonda PF collection, resulting in a well-balanced, highly enticing catalog.
 

The Toric Petite Seconde in rose gold and platinum are priced at CHF 45,000 and CHF 52,000, respectively. The Toric Rattrapante in rose gold, limited to 30 pieces, is priced at CHF 135,000. For more information, visit the Parmigiani Fleurier website.

(Photography by Pierre Vogel)