The Upside of Downsizing: Oris debuts a Redesigned Aquis Collection at Watches and Wonders

Holstein-based Oris has become one of the more hotly anticipated draws at Watches and Wonders 2024.

Last year, the Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition was one of the most talked about timepieces at the fair and certainly captured the spirit of creativity and joy that summed up the 2023 event. So, of course, we have big expectations from the brand for this year.

This year at Watches and Wonders, the Hölstein, Switzerland-based brand is setting its sights on redefining its luxury sport Aquis collection. From its case to movement, every detail has been reconsidered.

Here’s the inside information.

One of the reasons Oris is having a moment is that watches like the Aquis are amazing value propositions. They are far from cheap but are a bargain compared to the unobtanium offered by ultra-luxury goods. They are also a deal because they are dependable and highly versatile. They are an excellent everyday tool watch for enthusiasts.
 

The Aquis family, in particular, provides that “If You Know, You Know” vibe that collectors crave (we’re thinking specifically of the swirling, one-of-a-kind dials made of recycled PET plastic of the Upcycle, introduced in 2021).

The Aquis’ new less-is-more redesign is driven by Oris’ commitment to being a good global citizen symbol through its Change for the Better campaign and the Oris Emissions Reduction Programme.
 

It’s through the lens of being a responsible environmental steward that Oris hopes to redefine luxury. That is why every detail of this classic tool watch has been carefully reconsidered for the new Aquis collection.

The change begins with the case and its new profile and silhouette that have been pared down to deliver better aesthetics and ergonomics. These are the result of the Aquis’ new shape being more fluid.

The sculpted lugs and crown protectors have been subtly reworked, and even the three-link metal bracelet has been recast so that the central link is broader and the overall form more fluid and tapered.
 

On the dial side, the Oris team left no stone unturned. The shield-shaped applied hour markers are more polished and angular. Also exclusive to the Aquis models are Alpha-style hands and a new proprietary typography for the dial text.

This new generation of Aquises (Aquisi? Aquisae?) also has a date wheel with a background color to match the dial and high-contrast text. I don’t know if this evolution is inspired by the Kermit’s fun date feature (on the first day of each month, the famous frog’s face pops up in the 6 o’clock window), but it creates a pleasing engagement between the date and dial.
 

(If you are one of those people who is on the fence about date windows in general, this is a new way to either minimize or energize the complication.)

Enticing new design elements aside, at the end of the day, the Aquis needs to be a high-performance watch that can switch seamlessly between outdoor adventures and more urban escapades.

Therefore, the case remains water-resistant to 30 bar (300 meters). Also, the uni-directional rotating ceramic bezel still offers accurate, safe dive time measurements with a highly resistant ceramic bezel.
 

What’s new is that the Aquis collection now offers new sizes, colorways, and movements. Oris is calling these variations “modern versatile,” and they were conceived to appeal to a wider variety of lifestyles.

The new Aquis will initially be available in 43.5mm and 41.5mm cases – both in stainless steel – with open casebacks and a choice of black, blue, or green dial colors. The models will be available with the Oris Calibre 733 automatic, based on the Sellita SW200-1.
 

A larger 43.5mm model will also be offered with the option of a movement upgrade to the maison’s five-day, anti-magnetic in-house Calibre 400 automatic mechanism.

The Calibre 400 models will also feature Oris’ patented Quick Strap Change system so that wearers can easily choose between the brand’s wide array of interchangeable straps and bracelets.
 

The 400s will also come supplied with a new Oris-patented quick-adjust clasp system that allows the bracelet to be easily adjusted between three comfort positions to accommodate the wearer’s wrist as it responds to environmental conditions.

Finally, the wildly popular Aquis Date Upcycle returns and comes in four versions: two 43.5mm models with either a ceramic or tungsten bezel insert and slightly smaller 41.5mm and 36.5 mm models with a ceramic bezel insert.
 

All of these new Upcycles are powered by the Oris 733 automatic movement; however, you can upgrade the 43.5mm model with the Calibre 400 movement.