Rolling in the Deep: Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Diver NET OPS and the Diver X Skeleton OPS

The Le Locle-based brand Ulysse Nardin has just announced a two-piece dive watch capsule collection, and we can’t stop thinking about how far the brand has come since CEO Patrick Pruniaux took the wheel at this venerable house in 2017.

Founded in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has always been well-respected in horological circles, especially for its history with maritime timepieces. But with Pruniaux at the helm, the brand has rejuvenated its core collections – Marine, Diver, Freak, Blast, and Classico – making them more relevant to a modern audience. From ingenious materials to avant-garde design, few manufactures have boldly embraced change like Ulysse Nardin.

Now, Ulysse Nardin follows up its Freak X OPS and Freak ONE OPS from 2023 with the release of a dynamic duo: the Diver NET OPS and the Diver Skeleton OPS. A statement of the brand’s commitment to innovation and sustainability, this capsule collection continues to push the creative boundaries of in-house watchmaking while delving into the Diver’s lineage, making it a worthy sequel to its 2023 cousin.

Innovation is baked into Ulysse Nardin’s bones, so being able to rapidly and radically change things up is part of the brand’s appeal. Moreover, between its collaborations with high-tech start-ups and environmental advocates, the brand is also invested in finding new innovative materials and technologies to raise awareness about environmental responsibility.

Introduced in 2020, the original Diver NET was a concept watch. Meanwhile, 2023 saw the birth of two Freak OPS (as in “operations”) timepieces. This year brings the marriage of the eco-friendly Diver NET with the edgy Freak OPS mini collection to create the Diver NET OPS.
 

With a water resistance of 300 meters, the Diver NET OPS is powered by the automatic manufacture calibre UN-118 movement, which features a 60-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring – a material first used in the watch industry by Ulysse Nardin in 2001.

Additionally, the escapement is coated in DiamonSil, a patented ultra-high-tech form of diamond-coated silicon (developed during the creation of 2007’s Freak DIAMonSil) that delivers high-performance precision and durability.
 

Ulysse Nardin also claims that the Diver NET OPS is probably the most sustainably built, haute horology sports watch on the market. As evidence, the brand points out that the Diver NET’s new case is formed from 95% recycled stainless steel. The side and the caseback are a mix of Nylo (a polyamide formed from upcycled fishing nets) and Carbonium (a cutting-edge material made of carbon fibers).

Not to mention the fact that manufacturing Carbonium also creates less of an environmental footprint compared to other carbon composites; plus, because Carbonium’s signature mélange creates a deconstructed, mottled effect on the unidirectional rotating bezel, no two Diver NET OPS watches will look exactly alike.
 

Speaking of the Diver NET OPS’ appearance, the sandblasted khaki green dial has a visually arresting layout with its embossed, large satin finished X, power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, and its small seconds display at 6 o’clock. For legibility, Super-LumiNova markings in beige cast a green glow in low light.

Of course, this substantial 44mm timepiece is built for action, so it is reinforced by a khaki green fabric strap partially made from upcycled fishing nets or a khaki green rubber strap with a black ceramic “Ulysse Nardin” element at 6 o’clock.

Another extra for enthusiasts who want to dip their toe in the UN waters, the Diver NET OPS is accessibly priced (at least, for a Ulysse Nardin timepiece) at $13,300.

The second piece in this OPS capsule collection is the Diver X Skeleton OPS. This avant-garde take on the dive watch lays bare all the features of Ulysse Nardin’s in-house skeletonized automatic movement, the UN-372, including an oversized oscillator and an escapement in silicon.
 

The unidirectional rotating bezel and barrel cover at 12 o’clock are made of space-age Carbonium, bringing the marbleized effect beyond the surface of the timepiece. The concave bezel contrasts nicely with a domed sapphire crystal. The feeling of fluidity and strength of this open work aesthetic is reinforced by a lightweight, 44mm black DLC-coated titanium case.
 

This super modern dive watch is delivered on a forward-thinking khaki green fabric strap partially made from upcycled fishing nets or a rubber strap and is priced at $27,500. For more information, visit the Ulysse Nardin website.