H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic
Red Hot: H. Moser & Cie.’s New Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is Fire
Unveiled today, the Schaffhausen-based brand is making its first foray into the world of ceramics with the new Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic.
By Rhonda Riche
Editor-At-Large
Ceramic has been used in watchmaking for decades. As the technology required to work with the material has advanced, ceramic has become increasingly popular for its wearability (it’s lightweight, hypoallergenic, and non-corrosive) and versatility.
So why has it taken H. Moser & Cie. this long to experiment with the material? The answer, of course, is that the brand wanted to use it in a way that was both creative and utilitarian.
And the brand’s new Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, unveiled today, fits that bill nicely.
Eruption Disruption
Yes, for the first time in its history, H. Moser & Cie. is venturing into the world of ceramics, utilizing this technically demanding material to complement the aerodynamic silhouette of its Streamliner collection. And, indeed, ceramic seems especially well-suited to the organic lines of the Streamliner collection, cultivating the aesthetic without constraining it.
Moreover, the material provides extra depth to the coloring of the surfaces of the 40mm cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet. Combined with vertical satin finishing on the bracelet, subtle polishing on the edges, and circular satin finishing on the case, this material lets you see the Streamliner in a whole new (play of) light.
In fact, our first thought upon seeing the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is of a volcanic eruption, with its red fumé Grand Feu enamel dial representing the lava and its anthracite grey ceramic case acting as the ash cone.
Magnificent Magma
All Moser watches stand out for their almost irreverent point of view. The brand’s own credo is “Very Rare,” thus, it was a pleasant surprise to see the new Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic’s wry personality underscored by a minimalist aesthetic and cheeky choices such as going index and logo-free. This individualistic expression even extends to its technological prowess.
To continue the volcano metaphor from earlier, ceramics and enameling share a common ancestor: volcanic glass, the amorphous (uncrystallized) product of rapidly cooling lava. Moreover, to reach their final forms, these surfaces must undergo repeated cycles of heating and cooling.
And with the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic’s breathtaking Grand Feu enamel dial, H. Moser & Cie. has reinvented the ancient art of Grand Feu enameling by imbuing it with a sense of history and permanence despite our chaotic modern era.
First, a textured pattern is engraved on a white gold base creates a hammered effect. Then two enamel pigments, washed, ground, and applied in a gradient, are fixed to the dial over several firings. The result is an intense, luminous, fiery red fumé dial.
The mechanism at the heart of the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is both complex and stripped down.
At 6 o'clock, a one-minute flying tourbillon enlivens the dial’s overall composition. The complication is driven by the HMC 805 automatic calibre with a double hairspring – a mechanism was designed and produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie.'s sister company, Precision Engineering AG. This pair of matching hairsprings improves accuracy and isochronism by compensating for shifts in the center of gravity as the springs expand.
Meanwhile, visible via the exhibition caseback, the partially skeletonized bridges and mainplate, finished in anthracite grey, provide a subtle contrast to the openworked red gold oscillating weight, emphasizing the movement's elegance.
Finally, the best news of all: Moser plans to explore more ceramic options in the future!
For more information, including pricing and availability, check out the H. Moser & Cie. website.