harry wintston ocean biretrograde perpetual calendar automatic 3

Our Favorite Harry Winston Creations from Baselworld 2018

In the Baselworld jungle – there are spaces of poetry, gentleness, and reverie. Harry Winston offers us these fleeting moments of peacefulness with their refined, colorful collections. Always with their characteristic touch of originality.

By Benjamin Teisseire

We begin with the Ocean Collection, which celebrates its 20th birthday in 2018. Harry Winston has released several new models highlighting the jewelry house’s codes with finesse and sensitivity. Utilizing a high-end Swiss quartz, this Moon Phase piece brings two new versions in 18K gold with an incredibly recognizable case paved with 57 delicate diamonds set around a mother-of-pearl dial. Inviting us to dream and dive into a wave of diamonds under shimmering skies of Havana brown or blue to pink color gradation, like a sunrise. Harry Winston’s romanticism reveals itself fully with these two delicate 36mm models, boasting 10 bar of water resistance.

The jewelry house has also released new original watchmaking complications. Including two new dials on the Lady Biretrograde 36mm. Spring makes Lotus flowers bloom on both sides of the dial into indexes for the seconds (0 to 30 by leaps of 5) and the weekdays. They create a balance under the off-centered hours and minutes dial at 12 o’clock with four diamonds indexes at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. A last double petal set with diamonds indicates the date at 6 o’clock. The vivid tones - raspberry and royal blue - are original and mirror Harry Winston’s spirit who dares useful complications as much as bold colors. The crimping is done directly in the mother-of-pearl showcasing the ultra-precise jeweler’s savoir-faire which makes for sublime watchmaking.

Limited series culmination

The displayed savoir-faire culminates with the Ocean 20th Anniversary Bi-retrograde Automatic and its 36mm 18K white gold case set with 57 brilliant-cut diamonds. This 20-piece limited series, inspired by the shape of classic navigational tools, bears all the hallmark aesthetic traits of the collection. We dive into a sea of 70 scintillating diamonds and iridescent mother-of-pearl dial, adorned with a delicate ribbon of 97 Paraiba tourmalines of a mesmerizing blue lagoon hue which winds around all 3 counters. The off-centered hours indexes at 12 o’clock are 18K white gold appliques and a gorgeous emerald cut diamond indicates 12 o’clock. Retrograde seconds port side and weekdays at starboard dance in a flamboyant ballet of rare beauty. The self-winding movement which powers this horological gem is in the same tone. Equipped with its silicium spiral, it delivers 65 hours of power reserve and showcases elegant hand finishing highlighted further by the oscillating mass set with 23 sparkling blue Paraiba tourmalines. Water resistant to 10 bars and closed by a 18K white gold ardillon buckle set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds, this timepiece can be as sporty as well as romantic.

Harry Winston men’s collection

Representing 40% of the watchmaking output of the Maison, men are also honored this year. The first quantum perpetual in the collection makes its debut with the Ocean Bi-retrograde Perpetual Calendar Automatic of 42mm in white or rose 18K gold. The case is slimmed down from its usual 44mm for a lighter feel. The retrograde counters for the weekdays (left) and the date (right) offer a refreshing animation on the face with great legibility. The month counter at 12 o’clock and the moon phase one at 6 o’clock provide an elegant balance to the whole execution. Leap years appear in a very legible window at 12 as well. These various details give a feeling of volume to the timepiece: indexes at 2, 4, 6 and 8 are framed in a clear reference to the brand’s logo, brushed openwork disc around the central dial adorned with a hypnotic Clou de Paris guilloche, fluted flange for the weekdays, openwork central hours and minutes hands with SuperLuminova tips. The brushed finish of the case gives another touch of class. The thin 18K gold luminescent indexes at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock mounted in Emerald shape enhance further the equilibrium of this QP.

The mechanical self-winding movement which beats at 28,800 vibrations/hour with its silicium spiral delivers 72 hours of power reserve and is adorned with circular Geneva Striping and an 18K white gold rotor. A very refined QP indeed with an aggressive price of CHF 55,000.

Project Z12

Harry Winston asserts its originality further with a new complication joining the Project Z collection, introduced 14 years ago, with its Zalium case, an exclusive alloy for the Maison. Two concentric and retrograde displays show hours above and minutes below a central arch. It creates a unique and unprecedented spectacle on the dial. An architectural openwork blue bridge - in the purest New-York style - separates the hands which jump in a delightful choreography 26 times a day. This symmetry is enhanced by the fixed peripheral sapphire date disk where a luminescent material reveals the quantum by moving beneath its surface to illuminate the date.

The automatic winding caliber HW3306 boasts 68 hours of power reserve and features the signature openwork white gold rotor of the house. This exclusive timepiece comes on a calfskin strap featuring a print reminiscent of a denim weave with a Zalium ardillon buckle with folding safety clasp.

With its futuristic high-tech design, a unique, playful, concentric display, this very original timekeeper will delight collectors looking for differentiation.

(Photography by Liam O’Donnell)

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