Patek Philippe Ref. 5520RG Grand Complication Alarm Travel Time

Live Pics: Patek Philippe Impresses at Watches and Wonders 2024

The key themes to Patek Philippe’s novelties are travel, precious metals (particularly rose gold), and complications.

By Henri Lee

As watch enthusiasts worldwide eagerly followed the updates from Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Patek Philippe, renowned for its exceptional standards in watchmaking, undoubtedly lived up to expectations by unveiling eleven new models across all collections.

Team Watchonista team was present on the opening day, talking to the brand representatives, taking pictures, and savoring the novelties. And among the many offerings, five of Patek Philippe’s novelties stood out, so much so that we just had to share them with you.

The Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5980/60G

The Nautilus 5980/1A, the first ever chronograph in the Nautilus collection, was launched in 2006, alongside other legendary Nautilus models like the 5711/1A and 5712/1A. And over the years, Patek Philippe has released numerous 5980 models in various metal cases and dial colors.

Of course, with its distinctive 60-minute and 12-hour monocounter at 6 o’clock, the model line has garnered admiration from watch collectors and enthusiasts alike. However, in February of this year, Patek Philippe announced that it was discontinuing all of its then-current 5980 models, leading many to wonder if it was the end of the beloved Nautilus chronograph.

Thankfully, the brand took pity on us and ended the suspense on the first day of Watches and Wonders 2024 with the release of the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5980/60G featuring a 40.5mm white gold case.

The opaline blue-gray dial is beautifully complemented by the blue-gray calfskin strap patterned to look like denim. The two pushers on the right side of the case will engage the chronograph functions, setting the central chrono second hand and the minute and hour hands at the 6 o’clock sub-dial into motion. Meanwhile, you can adjust the date at 3 o’clock by using the pusher located at 8 o’clock.

All these wonderful features are powered by the Calibre CH 28-520 C FUS, delivering an industry-leading timing accuracy of -1 to +2 seconds per day. The new Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5980/60G is priced at $78,950.

The Golden Ellipse with Metal Bracelet Ref. 5738/1R

The iconic Golden Ellipse was first released in 1968 and sported an elegant shape defined by the golden ratio, considered the most pleasing proportion to the human eye. Since then, the models of the Golden Ellipse collection have been highly sought after by many Patek Philippe collectors due to its long history and ultra-thin movements.

However, while leather straps and metal bracelets were both available options until the 1980s, for over four decades, the watches have been paired exclusively with leather straps. That changes now with the introduction of the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R, which features a chain-style bracelet in rose gold.

However, this is no ordinary metal bracelet because, believe it or not, it took Patek Philippe 15 years to develop. You read that right, FIFTEEN years.

The bracelet, comprising 363 individual elements, is manually assembled and finished by artisan chain-makers. More importantly, the clasp is crafted with three adjustment notches, making it extremely easy to adjust the length. The result is a luxurious look and superb wearing comfort. The 34.5 x 39.5mm Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R is priced at $60,100.

The Aquanaut Travel Time 5269R

Patek Philippe released two new Aquanaut Travel Time models at Watches and Wonders this year.

But it was the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5269R that piqued our interest, as it perhaps ranks among the most expensive quartz watches on the market (the Élégante by F.P.Journe being this model’s only real competition for that title). Measuring 38.8mm in diameter and 8.77mm in thickness, the watch is slim and refined with travel in mind.

Compared to other dual-time models from Patek Philippe with both local and home day/night indicators, only the home day/night indicator, moved to the 6 o’clock position, is included on the new 5269R. The dial looks clean and crisp as a result. Meanwhile, the white skeletonized hand for the second time zone is adjusted via the crown and hides under the rose gold hour hand when not activated.

Finally, the embossed Aquanaut globe pattern on the opaline blue-gray dial is eye-catching and complemented by a blue strap made of composite material. Encased in stunning rose gold with a closed caseback, the chic Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5269R is priced at $35,350.

The World Time with Date Ref. 5330G

As early as the 1930s, Patek Philippe was creating world-time wristwatches featuring 24 time zones, making them a pioneer in the genre.

Then, at the 2023 Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition “Watch Art” in Tokyo, the brand released a 300-piece limited edition World Time Ref. 5330G-10 with a purple guilloche dial that was available only in Japan. It was Patek Philippe’s first World Time model to include a date display synchronized with local time.

Now, with the release of the Ref. 5330G-001, this World Time with Date has joined the manufacture’s regular catalog. This model also marks the first time the brand’s regular lineup includes a transparent date hand with a red hammer-shaped tip to improve the dial’s overall legibility. Plus, to maintain symmetry, a peripheral date was adopted, showing the 31 days outside the 24-city ring along the flange.

Finally, with its blue-gray colorway and central dial area embossed with a “carbon” motif, similar to that of the Calatrava Ref. 6007G from last year, the new World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001 features a 40mm white gold case and is priced at $76,590.

The Grand Compilation Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG

Alongside the World Time models, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time offers another fantastic series of travel watches with a dual time display. And by combining complications with the Calatrava Pilot, Patek Philippe has created several versatile and appealing models, including chronographs and annual calendars.

Then, in 2019, the integration of an alarm into the Pilot Travel Time led to the grand complication heavyweight, the Ref. 5520P, which featured a 24-hour alarm mechanism complete with a hammer that struck a classic gong. It was the perfect travel companion that anyone would appreciate!

Now, at Watches and Wonders, the latest of this masterpiece, the Grand Complications Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG, has been released and features a two-tone configuration of a 42.2mm rose gold case, four white gold pushers, and a gray sunburst dial adorned with white gold applied numerals that are charcoal gray and have a luminescent coating.

The operation of the alarm function is fascinating. Displayed almost like a date aperture under the 12 o’clock position, the alarm, which is broken down to an hour and 15-minute intervals and includes a day/night indicator, is set by the first pulled-out crown position.

With the crown in the normal position, winding it clockwise will wind the alarm, while winding it counterclockwise will wind the watch itself. The pusher at 2 o’clock will turn the alarm on and off. The Grand Complications Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG is priced at a whopping $259,240.

For more information on these and other novelties not discussed here, check out the Patek Philippe website.

(Photography by Pierre Vogel)

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