Jacob & Co. Shows Off the New Billionaire Timeless Treasure at Watches & Wonders 2023
Jacob & Co. unveiled one of the watch industry’s most expensive watches ever at Watches & Wonders 2023, featuring 216.89 carats of Fancy and Fancy Intense yellow Asscher cut diamonds. Meet the $20,000,000 pièce unique: the Billionaire Timeless Treasure.
Since its introduction in 2015, the Billionaire from Jacob & Co. has been one of the watch industry’s most breathtaking watch platforms for high jewelry expression. Made possible by Jacob & Co.’s technique for attaching gems onto an underlying gold lattice, known as the invisible setting, the watches in the Billionaire line have an impeccable appearance and elegant design.
In the eight years since its debut, the brand has crafted twenty-one Billionaire watches, all of which (with one exception) have been sold to either top-tier watch retailers or directly to their owners. And now, with the Billionaire Timeless Treasure, Jacob & Co. has outdone itself once again.
Time is Money
The Billionaire Timeless Treasure, launched Monday at the Four Seasons in Geneva by Benjamin and Jacob Arabo, is unparalleled in its opulence, boasting an abundance of top-quality (and sizable) yellow diamonds.
Taking three-and-a-half years to create, the process of gathering these gems for the Billionaire Timeless Treasure was meticulous and arduous, requiring steadfast dedication to maintaining consistency in quality and color. The cutting process was also incredibly intricate. Never before have stones of this size and quality been cut at such a high level of complexity, with an unprecedented 425 Asscher-cut Fancy Yellow and Fancy Intense yellow diamonds included in the piece.
For me, three factors make the Timeless Treasure a $20,000,000 watch: its craftsmanship, the quality and quantity of its diamonds, and its uniqueness.
In terms of its craftsmanship, the skill needed to achieve the perfect Asscher-cut stone should not be underestimated. Why? Because, with its square shape and inclining corners, the Asscher cut (which is more of an octagon) requires 57 facets and demands much larger roughs than the typical brilliant cut.
I’ve already spoken a bit about the 216.89 carats of diamonds on this piece; however, to get to that number, Jacob & Co. started with 880 carats of rough diamonds. Gems were only rejected if their color and clarity didn’t make the cut. Not a single stone was set aside due to its price.
Finally, the Billionaire Timeless Treasure is a mosaic where each yellow diamond has a specific part to play, each having a precise cut and function.
A Second Skin Paved with Diamonds
When you are in front of such a piece, your attention automatically turns to, yes, the sheer number of diamonds. However, it also notices the gem lights and the skeleton tourbillon movement, which is adorned with baguette-cut yellow diamonds. But what impresses me even more is the meticulous work on the bracelet.
On the wrist, the Billionaire Timeless Treasure is a watch that is supposed to feel like a second (very expensive skin) skin. Thus, the first few rows of its 159-carat bracelet demand hefty gems. Then, as they near the clasp, their size diminishes in regular increments.
However, a gem’s location isn’t dependent its original size. Instead, only color matters here. As a result, several larger stones have been drastically cut down to fit its location in the bracelet. And as wasteful as that may seem, it isn’t for nothing because all these details make the bracelet a smooth and dynamic construction.
Nestled within the shimmering design of the watch is the skeletonized calibre JCAM39 movement with 57 baguette-cut diamonds invisibly set into its bridges.
Surrounded by the 76 kite- and emerald-cut tsavorites lining the flange, this one-minute tourbillon movement provides 72 hours of power reserve.
The Billionaire Timeless Treasure is a testament to the skill and expertise of the Jacob & Co. artisans who spent countless hours creating this masterpiece. And while the price tag may be shocking to some, it is a true reflection of the level of craftsmanship and artistry that has gone into creating this unique timepiece.