Geneva Watch Days: H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g Team Up for a Double Collaboration
Two disruptive brands from opposite ends of the watch spectrum come together with a shared passion for rebelling against industry norms, resulting in two killer timepieces that perfectly complement each other.
Watchmaking is rooted in centuries-old traditions, so at times, watches can feel just that: traditional. Thus, if someone asks you to picture a watch, you’ll likely conjure an image of something round, perhaps with a stainless steel build, white dial, and simple bracelet or neutral-colored leather strap.
However, as watchmaking has entered the modern era, brands become increasingly playful, often ditching the expected, classic design cues for something fresher and out of the ordinary. A few brands have even built their entire philosophies around the principle of bucking the norm for something more unexpected.
Today, two of those brands – H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g – have come together for the ultimate collaboration: a dual release of a perpetual calendar and a mono-pusher chronograph.
To Disrupt, You Have to Understand Tradition
In its contemporary incarnation since being acquired by Edouard Meylan in 2012, H. Moser & Cie. has become a major disruptor by creating provocative watches that push the bounds of the conservative Swiss watch industry.
However, to become a disruptor, you must first understand the traditions you plan to disrupt. This was easy for Meylan because he comes from a watchmaking family (his father, Georges-Henri, served as the CEO of Audemars Piguet for 20 years before founding MELB Holding, the company that now owns Moser).
Having this traditional foundation has allowed Meylan to infuse Moser with a rebellious spirit without compromising the high quality of its watches.
For example, in 2017, the brand unveiled the Swiss Mad Watch, which removed the “Swiss Made” label from its dials in protest of what it perceived as lax regulations on the designation that work in favor of companies outsourcing work from the country. Shortly after, Moser released the Swiss Mad Watch; except, this time, its case was made of Swiss cheese, and the strap was made from Swiss cowhide.
While most of the brand’s designs aren’t quite as avant-garde as the Swiss Mad Watch, Moser watches will, more often than not, incorporate the use of other artistic crafts (like grand feu enamel), unusual materials (such as tantalum and Vantablack), and natural stones (like jade) to dazzle enthusiasts.
The brand has also teamed up with other nonconformists along the way, like the sneakerhead destination Undefeated, as well as other rebels in the industry like MB&F.
Now, Moser has done it again, tapping Studio Underd0g for its latest collaboration.
H. Moser & Cie x Studio Underd0g
Like Moser, Studio Underd0g is a brand that doesn’t take watchmaking too seriously.
The young brand was established just a few years ago, in 2021, when its founder, Richard Benc, became restless in the pandemic and eager to pursue his longtime passion for watchmaking. Thus, the brand launched its first four models, which boasted playful hues, playful names, and priced at just $475 each.
Clearly, Moser and Studio Underd0g come from opposite ends of the high-end watch spectrum; however, it is equally clear that they share plenty of common ground: a love of vibrant color and a penchant for developing statement-making timepieces.
Luckily for all of us, the brands have harnessed their shared interests to develop two new watches inspired by passion fruit.
The Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit
The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit showcases Moser’s signature minimalism and complex simplicity and achieves the brand’s perfect balance of form and function.
Powered by Moser’s acclaimed Hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre offering standard hours and minutes, a perpetual calendar, oversized date display, a month indicator via the central hand, a small seconds at six o’clock, a power reserve indicator at nine o’clock, and a leap year indicator on the movement side, it is difficult to stop staring at the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit.
First of all, it features the striking combination of a purple lacquered sunburst dial as the base, representing the rich color of the skin of the passion fruit.
Next, the Maracuja “Grand Feu” enamel dial (layered atop an 18-karat yellow gold base) has a hammered texture and almost seems to glow in its vibrancy, representing the brightly colored “fruit” within.
Lastly, as a final pop of color, you’ll notice a subtle green accent, planting the seed of passion, if you will, between the brands and their enthusiasts.
The Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit
Meanwhile, Studio Underd0g’s interpretation of the same theme, the 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit, is the perfect complement to Moser’s.
The 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit boasts a Coarse Dégradé Amber and Royal Purple multilayer dial, with the purple mimicking the passion fruit peel around the periphery and the amber mimicking the fruit’s flesh.
Then, within the sub-dial at three o’clock, you’ll notice the same touch of green, uniting the watches, their makers, and their future owners in a shared passion.
The Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit is powered by a Swiss-cam-operated mono-pusher chronograph movement with standard hours and minutes, a 60-second counter via the center hand, a 30-minute counter at three o’clock, a seconds register at nine o’clock, and, of course, the mono-pusher chrono.
Both the calibre and the collaboration mark monumental firsts for the young, highly accessible brand, so this has been a big week for them!
Pricing & Availability
Both the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit are available in a limited run of 100 pieces per model.
For more information, including pricing, visit either the H. Moser & Cie. or Studio Underd0g websites.