A First Look At The New A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen”
The limited edition Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” combines three of Lange’s signature design elements into one timepiece.
Since its re-launch 27 years ago in 1994, A. Lange & Söhne has been known for its distinctive and unique design aesthetic. Oversize digital date displays immediately put the brand on its own unique footing. Aficionados appreciated the mechanics required to craft the outsize date, and its prominence on the dial was certainly an eye-catching novelty in luxury watches at the time.
Honeygold, a Proprietary Gold Alloy
For the new Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen,” A. Lange & Söhne combines two design elements that have appeared in its other watches and encased it in the brand’s proprietary 18K honey gold.
Honey gold is a “fascinating hue that lies between pink and white gold,” according to the brand. It is achieved by incorporating copper and zinc via a special thermal treatment. And on the new Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen,” not only is its 41.9mm case, but so too is the power reserve indicator, seconds hand, and strap buckle
The Zeitwerk: Bold and Built to Last
Lange collectors are well-versed in the brand’s Zeitwerk models. The signature oversized numerals of the Zeitwerk line display the time in hours and minutes in three discs. On the right side of the dial, the minutes are displayed employing two discs, while a single disc on the left indicates the hours. These oversized numerals provide exceptional legibility, at all times, including nighttime hours.
Moreover, the numerals on the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen,” specifically, have a powerful Super-LumiNova called C3, the brightest and most neutral shade of the luminous coating. UV light provides the energy needed for the numerals to glow, and the watch’s sapphire crystal dial has a special coating to allow even the numbers that aren’t in the display apertures to glow in the dark.
Thus, to charge the Super-LumiNova, the sapphire crystal is coated with “almost the darkest tone that still allows 95% of available UV light to get through,” said Anthony de Haas, Director of Product Development. “It’s the opposite of sunglasses, which aim to protect from UV rays. In this case, we want them to come through.”
The brand first introduced luminous indicators in 2010 with the Zeitwerk Luminous. The watch’s name changed to Lumen in subsequent editions. “We changed the name at the request of another brand, but I won’t tell you who it was,” de Haas said.
In addition to the easily read time indication, the new Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and a running seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock.
Of course, behind the display is where the mechanical magic happens. The new Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” features an updated movement, the L043.9. This second-generation Zeitwerk offers 72 hours power reserve, which is double that of its predecessor.
Another new element serves to make resetting the time less complicated. There’s a pusher at 4 o’clock that adjusts the hours only. It makes sense. After all, when you travel between time zones, it’s only the hour that needs resetting to the local time.
Additionally, the crown is positioned at 2 o’clock. Besides winding, the crown sets the minute indicators. And while the minutes are set, the second indicator is automatically stopped.
The watch’s new movement also stops itself once 72 hours have elapsed if it’s not re-wound. Why? “It improves the function,” said de Haas. “It extends the life cycle of the mainspring by five times by avoiding stretch that can be damaging and affect timing accuracy.”
Pricing & Availability
The new Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” will be produced in a limited edition of 200 individually numbered watches. The timepieces, priced at $145,000, will be available for sale only through A. Lange & Söhne boutiques, of which there are 42 worldwide. And in the US, the brand has boutiques in New York, Chicago, Miami, Costa Mesa, and Houston.