Geneva Watch Days
Innovation at the Forefront: TAG Heuer Debuts Three Highly Technical Models at Geneva Watch Days
The Maison unveils a revolutionary new advancement in watchmaking alongside a version of the Carrera, leaving us positively starstruck.
By Cait Bazemore
Contributor
When you think of TAG Heuer’s history of innovation, the chronograph surely comes to mind. From Edouard Heuer's oscillating pinion to the Calibre 11 (the world’s first automatic chronograph movement) to more modern developments, the Maison’s longstanding relationship with racing has largely informed its focus on the advancement of the chronograph mechanism.
However, for this year’s Geneva Watch Days, TAG Heuer reminds us that it’s not just a one-trick pony. Today, the brand presents three new offerings that showcase more than a decade of research and development. Making their grand entrance are the Monaco Flyback Chronograph and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonsprings alongside the Carrera Astronomer. Let’s dig in.
Breakthrough Developments in the Watch World
Approximately 350 years ago, a significant discovery was made in the world of watchmaking. Christiaan Huygens (a Dutch mathematician, physicist, engineer, and astronomer who was a key figure in the Scientific Revolution) created the modern oscillator.
This development started with the invention of the hairspring, a hair-like spiral installed at the heart of a movement’s regulating organ. Huygens paired the hairspring with the balance wheel, and together, this tiny spring enabled watchmakers to control the oscillation of a watch movement’s balance wheel. This marked a critical advancement in horology, paving the way for the first accurate and portable pocket watches.
Huygens’ original design was made of steel, which became easily susceptible to the effects of shocks, temperature changes, and magnetic fields. However, in the centuries that followed, watchmakers would continue to improve upon the mechanism, utilizing more resistant alloys. Eventually, as the rise of silicon gained popularity and prominence in the watchmaking industry over the past few years, this material has become the standard in contemporary horology.
Ever striving to push the boundaries, TAG Heuer wanted to tackle new ground. So, as this year marks the 350th anniversary of Huygens’ invention, the Maison has decided to make the material and design of these components the focus.
With the unveiling of the new Monaco and Carrera models at Geneva Watch Days, TAG Heuer has engineered a new hairspring housed in a patented TH-Carbonspring oscillator, a development that took a decade to bring to life. This revolutionary composition, developed and built entirely in-house, significantly improves the environmental resistance and long-term stability of the movement, and therefore the timepiece.
Magnetism and shock are always top-of-mind concerns for watchmakers. When it comes to this trifecta of components – the oscillator, hairspring, and balance wheel – watchmakers can grapple with these forces for years, in a constant pursuit of better materials and architecture to improve performance. TAG Heuer perpetuates this centuries-old quest with the inauguration of the TH-Carbonspring oscillator.
Here, the material combats magnetism and shock, but most importantly, it’s lightweight, which reduces inertia in the hairspring and enhances chronometric performance.
The Maison unveils this pivotal invention in two of its most iconic models, the Monaco and the Carrera. With both models, the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring, the use of carbon extends to the case and dial, which gives nod to the hairspring with a spiral decoration.
Carrera in the Cosmos
Next up, TAG Heuer offers another, astronomical-inspired iteration of its beloved Carrera that features the most romantic complication of them all: the moonphase. With the new Carrera Astronomer, the Maison has once again pushed boundaries by breaking away from the abstract displays commonly associated with traditional moonphase watches.
More specifically, the Carrera Astronomer has a rotating disc at 6 o’clock that presents seven illustrated stages of the Moon. Flanked by two slender arrows calibrated for daily motion, the display shows the Moon’s current phase as well as its position in the 29.5-day cycle.
Each day at 1:00 a.m., the lunar disc advances in perfect rhythm with the real-world Moon’s movement. This synchronization both elevates accuracy and strengthens the sense of connection between the wearer and the moonphase cycle (which, you know, as a self-proclaimed astrology girl, I really appreciate).
The Carrera Astronomer comes in three versions, each with a classic 39mm stainless steel case and a silver sunray-brushed dial as its base. Within each of the three variations, you get different accent colors throughout.
The first offers the beautiful contrast of black accents on the moonphase and minute track. The second provides a gorgeous two-tone look with the moonphase rendered in complementary silver and rose gold accents throughout the hour markers, minute track, and hands.
Lastly, there is a numbered, 500-piece limited edition with a grey moonphase and minute track, along with turquoise accents across the hour markers and within the depictions of the Moon.
Pricing & Availability
The Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring are both available today for pre-order in a limited run of just 50 pieces each.
The Monaco is priced at CHF 17,000 (approximately $21,000), while the Carrera will cost you CHF 40,000 (around $50,000). All three versions of the Carrera Astronomer are available for pre-order today, each priced at CHF 4,350 (approximately $5,400). For more information, visit the TAG Heuer website.