DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph

Baselworld 2019: DOXA Releases $70,000 Solid Gold SUB 200 T.Graph

To celebrate 130 years of DOXA, the brand has released an outrageous solid gold diver

By Josh Shanks
Managing Editor US

Over the years, legendary dive watch brand DOXA has become a bit of a cult hit in the dive watch community. Coupled with the rise in forums and social media, we’ve seen interest in vintage DOXA explode. Watches once meant to serve the purposes of every day aqua men are now commanding five-figure prices in the vintage market.

DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph

Since its launch in 1969, DOXA’s SUB 200 T.Graph has been a mainstay in the brand’s collection. To celebrate its 50th anniversary, DOXA is doing something special ­– and we mean “special.”

DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph

Enter the DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph - Did we mention it's SOLID GOLD?

In the watch industry, we talk a lot about anniversaries. Brands are constantly digging into the archives to drum up past milestones that will lead to modern day marketing success. DOXA is certainly no exception as their reissues of the SUB have led to renewed interest in the brand's rich heritage. For me, the SUB 300 series reissues have punched way above their vintage inspiration. But contrary to today, these SUB reissues have held the average pre-order price of $2,000. So when I saw that DOXA had released a solid gold diver, I had to know more.

DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph

For a brand that's held firm in the sub $5,000 range, a $70,000 ($69,000 USD to be exact) may seem like a bit of a stretch. While I can certainly agree with you, the new DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph isn't necessarily meant to appeal to everyone. Furthermore, Baselworld was the very location where the original DOXA SUB was launched in 1967. So it made sense that the brand took the opportunity to celebrate. And since 2019 marks the 130th anniversary of the brand, a monumental celebration piece makes sense in a way.

DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph

The new SUB 200 T.Graph '130th Anniversary' features a 43mm case made of 18k yellow gold. The brand has also resurrected new old stock Valjoux 7734 movements to power this new halo piece. Adding to the vintage vibe are beige SuperLuminova indices and hands which closely resemble old radium. The piece is a limited series of just 13 pieces and is available on orange rubber ($43,800) or matching solid gold bracelet ($69,900). 

DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph

This new DOXA is certainly polarizing. So much so that I had to turn to an expert to get his opinion on this solid gold DOXA. So I ended up dialing my friend (and legendary DOXA collector) James Lamdin (of Analog/Shift) who had this to add, "DOXA was my point of entry into the collecting hobby, and I am an unashamed and outspoken advocate for the brand. When I started hunting vintage DOXA Subs over 15 years ago, very few others had any idea what I was talking about. For years, I've educated collectors and championed DOXA's historical significance. It has been a true pleasure watching enthusiasts the world over learn about and embrace their once-forgotten story, as well as seeing the brand fully embrace their heritage and begin producing some truly excellent models." (continued) 

DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph

"I fear that with the release of a $70K gold T-Graph, DOXA has yet again turned the wrong direction and is completely missing the point of their brand- and worse, losing credibility with a collector base they have worked hard to cultivate. To be clear, I am ALL FOR a solid gold limited production T-Graph. Had it been priced even remotely sensible, I’d have been first in line for the thing. But DOXAs roots as a dive watchmaker are in affordable, quality, function-first timepieces, and the price on this thing is so ambitious it doesn’t even feel real. The brand is too cool and I’d hate to see it falter and fail. So DOXA, if you’re listening, call me. XoXo " Lamdin continued.

DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph

While Lamdin's thoughts are certainly poignant, a $70,000 DOXA certainly makes even the most astute DOXA collector feel feelings. I'm on the fence, I respect the fact that DOXA took the leap – after all, we're talking about it. The new DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph will begin production soon and is priced at $43,800 on an orange rubber strap or $69,900 on gold beads of rice bracelet. Would you take the leap?

(Photography by Liam O'Donnell)

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