Swiss Wine: A Secret Weapon?

Over the past two decades or so, there has been a quiet revolution in the world of wine. I refer here not so much to how it’s made, but to the wider variety of what’s available. Bottles from the Republic of Georgia, now understood as one of the earliest cradles for the drink, have exploded onto wine lists. Croatia produces wines of interest; Plavac Mali, a rich red, has an ever-growing fan base. And Austria? Those wines have been a not so well kept secret for many years and in recent times has found the wide audience they deserve.
 

The common denominator? There are several, but for me the most notable, to put it plainly, is mountains. Grape vines respond well to the drainage and protection, the various microclimates, and even the stress that ranges of all sizes can provide and no other nation is more synonymous with altitude measurements than Switzerland. The vast majority of wines produced in this small nation are also consumed there, but a little sleuthing can have you bringing home a taste. Start your Swiss explorations with a Chasselas.

You’ve likely never heard of it, but all the better! I found out more about it after a discussion with the team at Watchonista (apparently, international watch journalists are acting as an ersatz PR firm for the wine after they encounter it on trips to Switzerland).

It is the country’s main grape, with about 4,000 of the 15,000 hectares of vines planted to it. A light bodied, aromatic white, typically the wine has notes of apple and pear, and a persistent minerality that comes from the country’s chalky soils (it’s all mountain runoff, in the end; the word “flinty” appears a lot in tasting notes). I’d guess the wine has lasted (since its first appearance in the historical record, in the 17th century) mainly because, against those round fruit flavors, the wine maintains an intriguing acidity.
 

I phoned major retailers in New York, Chicago, and Los Angeles, and each typically had ten or so bottlings, hiding in plain sight. (There were always more on the websites than actually in store.) Domaine de Chantegrive and Maison Hammel are notable producers—but there are so many small houses that it is hard to keep track. I tried a bold and delicious 2019 “Cuvée des Immortels” from Domaine de la Pierre Latine recently with a wine buddy and it sent him rushing to his cheese drawer!
 

Quite correct: Chasselas shines when paired with cheese, as in a fondue or, if you’re lucky, with a proper raclette. Simply broiled fish would make a lovely partner. It’s got just enough body and acid to sit alongside schnitzels of every type—and for that matter, a little fried calamari would be perfect.
 

At your next gathering of watch aficionados, surprise your guests with a slow-simmering pot of cheese, a fruit plate, and hors d’oeuvres like smoked trout with creme fraiche. Pour out the Chasselas. Casually mention the six Swiss growing regions—Valais, Vaud, German-speaking Switzerland, Geneva (by far the leading grower of the varietal), Ticino, and the region of the Three Lakes (Trois-Lacs)—and the fact that they all grow Pinot Noir, as well.

No one there will have had one of those since Switzerland drinks most of the wines it produces—and they probably haven’t had a Chasselas either. Now toast your passion for the products of Switzerland—source of many vintage, handmade treasures.