5 of Our Favorite Sapphire Crystal-cased Watches

Rock On: 5 of Our Favorite Sapphire Crystal-cased Watches

It’s been 40 years since the first sapphire-cased watch was released. To celebrate this auspicious anniversary, here are five iconic clear timepieces.

By Rhonda Riche
Editor-At-Large

The Corum Bridge 1980, a tourbillon designed by Vincent Calabrese, premiered in 1985, and it was the first watch to feature a sapphire crystal case. However, even though that was 40 years ago, sapphire-encased watches are still rare and expensive because it is a notoriously difficult material to work.

Fun Fact: First used on watches in the 1960s to cover dials, synthetic sapphire is made from a process of crystalizing aluminum oxide (Al2O3) powder using extremely high temperatures and has a Mohs hardness of 9, which means a limited number of minerals or compounds, like diamonds or tungsten carbide, are hard enough to machine it.

Despite these degrees of difficulty, four decades later, watchmakers have found new ways explored ways to make sapphire cases that bend the light, allow unobstructed views of a watch’s inner workings, and reflect almost all the colors of the rainbow. Such craftsmanship comes with a considerable price tag, but they also capture how creative watchmaking can be.

Here, we present five of our favorites.

Richard Mille RM 07-02

Introduced in 2015, the first iteration of the RM 07-02 from Richard Mille was cleverly constructed to allow the movement to be admired from all angles, with each case requiring over 1,000 hours of machining.
 

Ten years later, Richard Mille expanded the collection with four new variations tinted in blue, green, lilac, and pink. It’s kind of a crossover from the Maison’s Bonbon collection, except, this time, the confections are hard candies sprinkled liberally with blue and yellow sapphires, orange spessartite, white agate or opal, and various shades of green tsavorite, chrysoprase and malachite.

The most impressive detail is that the sapphire case is also delicately set with diamonds: a gem setter’s nightmare but a collector’s delight.
 

The CRMA5 in-house automatic movement is also one of the most beautiful skeletonized calibres available. Its bridges and mainplate are crafted from either red or white gold and have been micro-blasted and chamfered by hand.

Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire

Few brands have as much fun with color as Hublot does. Innovations such as spiking its synthetic sapphire cases with a vibrant hue to create goodies like the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire, which was not only transparent but positively radiant.
 

That is one of the reasons why the Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire was such a hit at Watches & Wonders last year. First, they brought back the revolutionary MP-, a watch with a two-week power reserve that was the hit of Baselworld 2018.

Then, to highlight its triumphant return, the brand encased the MP-11’s seven sculptural vertical co-axial barrels in a bright blue sapphire case. If you’ve ever witnessed an iceberg calving, the visual effect is just as impressive.
 

You can read how many days are left in the reserve on the display at the far left of the series-coupled barrels. Transmitting energy from the horizontally aligned barrel arbor to the vertical gears controlling the hour and minute display necessitated the use of a 90-degree helical worm gear, which is visible at the 10 o’clock position. The balance wheel can be seen on the other side of the dial at 2 o’clock.
 

The powerful wrist presence of the 44mm case of the MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire is complemented by a transparent lined structured rubber strap with a titanium deployant buckle clasp.

Girard-Perregaux Quasar Tourbillon with Three Bridges

Not new but still a stunning example of haute horology, the Quasar Light Tourbillon with Three Bridges from Girard-Perregaux pays tribute to the manufacturer’s most iconic movement by presenting a 360-degree view of the classic complication.
 

Unlike the futuristic shapes from Richard Mille and Hublot, this crystalline 46mm x 15.25mm watch is more formal. Its concept is that its round shape should frame the signature three bridges like observing a star through a telescope.

So, let’s get scientific and start by looking at the construction of this transparent timepiece. The sapphire crystal is created by crystalizing alumina (Al2O3) powder using a flame fueled by oxygen and dihydrogen to reach nearly 3,000 degrees Kelvin (or 4,940 degrees Fahrenheit). The resultant disc is then cut, machined, drilled, domed, and polished using tools made from diamond – a labor-intensive task that requires over 200 hours of attention.
 

It’s all worth it for the unobstructed view of open-worked construction. Devoid of any opacity, Quasar allows photons to play freely across its matte surfaces and taut curves of the calibre.

Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon Sapphire Crystal

Pink is a popular hue for sapphire-cased watches, and with its Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon Sapphire Crystal Pink, Jacob & Co. has created a timepiece as precious as any gemstone.

We like to view the world through rose-tinted glasses and, through its partnership with Bugatti, Jacob & Co. has presented an optimistic example of over-the-top luxury with a miniaturized version of the automaker’s Chiron hypercar W16 engine housed inside a bright pink clear case.
 

Another reason these watches are so expensive is that most are crafted from a single block of solid sapphire. One little slip up and you must start all over again.

Artime ART01

Manufacturing technology has advanced enough to allow for high-end complications that cost less than $5,000, but at present, the hours and expense needed to create a sapphire watch keep the price at the $100,000 and above mark.
 

However, perhaps the future of sapphire can be found in the ART01, the first release from Artime Créations. Its patented case is half-sapphire, half-metal (titanium or 5N rose gold), allowing for a spectacular view of the ART01’s architectural movement. These delicate layers are anchored by an elaborate system of tubes and pillars to provide a sense of lightness. The visual effect is a display that makes all the mechanical elements of this tourbillon appear as if they are floating on air.
 

Even though the process is not as exacting as carving a case from a sapphire monobloc, the 20-piece limited edition Artime ART01 is a masterful creation, so it will still cost you around $230,000 to add it to your collection.

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