Naoya Hida 101
Established in 2019, timepieces from the Japanese independent brand are the ultimate in slow luxury.
By Rhonda Riche
Editor-At-Large
Of course, I’ve been tracking high-end Japanese independent Naoya Hida for a while now. And the raisin d’être behind the brand – to make modern vintage watches that combine the work of skilled artisans with the latest machine tools – is especially compelling. But when I saw collector Erika Ratini (a.k.a. @watchmissgmt) wearing an NH Type 4A in person this past April in Geneva, I became a full-on fan.
What really struck me about her watch was its subtle features, especially the sans-serif Arabic numerals carved into the German silver dial. It looked so old-school, but clearly this effect could only be produced in modern times.
Formed in 2019, Naoya Hida & Co. is made up of three men: founder and CEO Naoya Hida, watchmaker Kosuke Fujita, and engraver Keisuke Kano. While they all worked in the business, they came together as collectors with a passion for classic vintage pieces – especially those by Patek Philippe.
Their goal was to make more than mere reproductions. Thus, every year since its founding, Naoya Hida explores more finishes, case shapes, and complications. And every year, the brand presents a collection of new editions (unveiled in April, available for pre-order until May, and delivered around December/January).
Sorry, gang, while you can no longer place an order for a watch produced in 2026, don’t think of this article as late; rather, see it as an opportunity to get ready for next year. To appreciate that future, let’s have a look at Naoya Hida’s impressive collections.
In The Beginning: The NH Type 1 Series
The collection that started it all! The NH Type 1 series debuted in 2019 with the release of the NH Type 1B.
Signatures of this series include a Calatrava-type case with a vintage-inspired oversized crown. The original had a bright 904L stainless steel case and a German Silver dial with hand-engraved Breguet-style numerals. These numerals were filled with a synthetic cashew urushi.
For the latest in the collection, the Type 1E, the case size has been reduced to 36mm. This is down from the previous 37mm, lending an even more retro impression. At the same time, the sapphire crystal has been updated from a traditional curved shape to a more three-dimensional, domed one, making it feel quite contemporary.
A Good Sport: The NH Type 4 Series
The Type 4 is Naoya Hida’s “sports” watch. And by sports, I mean something I can picture wearing in pursuit of a genteel pastime such as badminton or lawn bowling. This collection debuted in 2023 with a novel 37mm case. The next year saw the watch take on more of an Art Deco flavor with the Type 4A and Type 4A-1.
Both models featured slightly smaller (36mm) stainless steel cases, while the display showcased sans-serif Arabic numerals carved into the German silver dial. The hour and minute hands were diamond-shaped. Finally, the difference between the Type 4A and the Type 4A-1 is that the latter’s German silver dial was treated with dark grey DLC, turning it dark grey.
It’s Hip to Be Square (or Close to It): The NH Type 5
In 2025, Naoya Hida released its first-ever rectangular model, the Type 5A and Type 5A-1.
As you can see, the geometry is pure deco, but the typography lends this collection a modern edge. The dagger-like indices point the eye toward the brand’s logo. A blued baton small seconds hand is centered in a sloped, brushed seconds track. And the surface of the dial is composed of grained German silver.
And while the 904L steel case is small (26mm across with a lug-to-lug of 43.5mm), even by Naoya Hida’s standards, details like its polished stepped case and top-hat sapphire crystal make it stand out. Overall, it’s a lovely modern dress watch.
Mark Your Calendar Watches: The NH Type 6A
Apart from the occasional moonphase, Naoya Hida has pretty much stuck to time-only watches. That is, until 2025, when the brand introduced its first perpetual calendar: the NH Type 6A.
Although it contains a super complication, it still adheres to the brand’s distinct point of view. For example, this Type 6 is compact (37mm in diameter) and features refined polishing on areas such as the stepped, concave-sloped bezel and the tops of the lugs to complement the brushed case sides.
To contain the complication, however, this case sits a little higher than other Naoya Hida offerings. This construction helps it appear less monolithic, with a shaped midcase and short, downturned lugs that gently slope up from the wrist. Additionally, its small calendar adjusters jut out on the right side of the case in three positions.
Meanwhile, in another first for Naoya Hida, the Type 6A uses sterling silver for the dial and its three sub-dials, rather than its signature German silver.
A quick note about the inner workings of the brand’s watches: Many of Naoya Hida's round watches use the workhorse Valjoux 7750 as the base caliber. The Type 6A, however, is the result of a three-way partnership between Richard and Maria Habring of Habring² as well as Dubois-Dépraz, with input from Naoya Hida & Co.'s watchmaker Kosuke Fujita.
The Latest: The NH Type 4A-2
Because the Naoya Hida team is small, collaboration helps them grow creatively. This year, the brand teamed up with frequent partner The Armoury for the Type 4A-2 Floating Feathers.
This watch was conceptualized by The Armory’s Mark Cho and designer Elliot Hammer. Its inspiration comes from both mid-twentieth-century decorative pocket watch dials and the natural design of a bird's feather.
“We wanted to explore a dial that wasn’t primarily about timekeeping, and have always loved the tradition of dials depicting birds. With the Floating Feathers, we took NH & Co.’s precise aesthetic and blended it with the delicate feathers of a bird, a subject that can be artfully recreated using fine engraving,” says Cho.
“Whilst in Japan, I appreciated the attention to space and timelessness. In the Floating Feathers, there is a logic: if there are feathers, there must have also once been a bird,” adds Hammer.
The dial is hand-engraved in Argentium, a silver alloy, by master engraver Keisuke Kano and features three feathers with intricate detail, surrounded by 12 individually assembled 18K yellow gold minute markers, and paired with solid gold hands and a blued-steel seconds hand with a “caviar spoon” counterweight.
The watch is built on Naoya Hida's 36mm Type 4 stainless steel case, with proportions more informed by 1960s style than those of other models. It is powered by the hand-wound Caliber 3020CS – a reworked ETA 7750 platform offering a roughly 45-hour power reserve. Entirely manufactured in Japan, it comes on a hand-stitched charcoal grey calf strap by Jean Rousseau.
For more information about pricing and availability of its watches, check out the Naoya Hida website.