Lighten Up: How to Lower the Punch of Your Punch
I remain resolutely neutral on the topic of Dry January. Still, coming out of the holiday marathon, I find myself looking for something a little lighter on its feet – more intrigue, less power – something with a bit of bite, a touch of the unexpected, and versatility.
Italy long ago mastered the Aperitif and the spritz, but they needn’t appear on your bar only in the warmer months. That is why, today, I plan to introduce you all to a trio of unusual liqueurs that will serve you well before or after your dinner.
They brighten up the beginnings and ends of the darkest evenings of the year: Sip one slimmed with soda while fixing up an hors d’oeuvre tray, or replace dessert with a pour, whatever you like – and you’re still checking the moderation box.
There’ll be plenty of time for single malts next month. Or perhaps tomorrow.
Vermouth di Torino Superiore Bianco TIM21
A mere bambino in the world of Italian refreshments, Elena Spirits is about to mark its fifth year. But the pedigree here is what counts; proprietors Luca and Elena Currado are the former owners and winemakers of Vietti (one the most storied of Barolo makers). They’re still in Piedmont, now just harvesting (by hand) the abundant natural herbs and botanicals of the region instead of its grapes.
The source wine for their new Vermouth di Torino Superiore Bianco TIM21 is a quirky Timorasso white, an ancient sipper that’s been on the rise in recent years (after a near-disappearance). The herb blend, drawn from the Langhe, Alps, and Liguria, is gently macerated in alcohol and then infused. It’s bold on the rocks, a kind of mini vacation.
If you care to try a wetter style of martini, a trend recently written up in the New York Times and elsewhere, this is a cutting-edge approach.
Distilleria dell’Alpe Amaro del Cansiglio
I can’t count how many times I’ve seen sommeliers ask for an amaro at the end of their shift. I’ve seen it so often, in fact, that years ago, I even began ordering one at the tail end of many a dinner. They are quite literally bittersweet, a palate-washing blast of flavor and life, and a great digestif.
The Amaro del Cansiglio from Disitilleria dell’Alpe is flavored with over 18 herbs, plants, and berries found in the ancient Cansiglio forest at the foot of the Eastern Italian Alps (that is, across the top of the country from the bianco, above). On the rocks, it’s easy to linger over rather than quaff: instant moderation.
The Amaro del Cansiglio from Disitilleria dell’Alpe is flavored with over 18 herbs, plants, and berries found in the ancient Cansiglio forest at the foot of the Eastern Italian Alps (that is, across the top of the country from the bianco, above). On the rocks, it’s easy to linger over rather than quaff: instant moderation. But the sweet and bitter orange notes here play beautifully in an Old Fashioned cocktail and its ilk. We won’t tell.
Limònio Topazio Liquore di Mandarino di Sicilia
The sunny island of Sicily is home to an astonishing variety of citrus, with much of its obscure indigenous stuff having been cultivated no matter who was in charge of the place over the centuries.
The Topazio Liquore di Mandarino from the experts at Limònio is an exotic, intense liqueur produced from the tangerine rind and peel of the Tardivo di Ciaculli cultivar, a treasure designated and protected by the Slow Food association. (It’s a wine distillate base, plus a little sugar, water, and the rare fruit.)
This pours a radiant orange in the glass – and is brilliant with a rum cake or chocolate. Still, if you’ve cut those out too, this sipper suffices for a modest, 35% ABV course all on its own.