Five Lots Sure to Be Showstoppers at the 2025 Spring Geneva Watch Auctions

The Swiss watch industry has entered a period of uncertainty, as tariffs threaten the U.S. market and demand continues to soften in China. Fortunately, the 2025 Spring Geneva Watch Auctions, returning like clockwork, offer a welcome sense of normality. Moreover, a successful auction season would go a long way in restoring confidence across the industry.

The leading auction houses – Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum – have curated an impressive array of lots. Choosing only a few guaranteed showstoppers is no easy task, but these five timepieces stood out.

As lot 126 in Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I auction, this exceptionally rare Rolex Ref. 16516 was a private commission for a prominent collector, with a sale date in October 1999 through Rolex France. Its rarity stems from several factors.

First, the case is crafted in platinum – a material not used in regular Daytona production until 2013. Second, it carries a unique reference number, 16516. Third, it houses the Calibre 4030, an automatic movement supplied by Zenith. Finally, the dial features a refined white mother-of-pearl surface, accented by diamond hour markers.
 

Even more intriguing, this watch is the last of a quartet commissioned by the same Rolex client. The other three pieces, also in platinum but with dials made of black mother-of-pearl, lapis lazuli, and turquoise hardstone, were sold by Sotheby’s in 2018, 2020, and 2021. Notably, the lapis lazuli example fetched an astounding HKD 25,375,000 (approximately USD 3.2 million).

Preserved in mint condition and accompanied by its original box and papers, this remarkable timepiece, crafted 25 years ago, is now ready for its next chapter.
 

Estimate: CHF 700,000 to CHF 1,400,000
Auction Date: May 11th, 2025

Jacob & Co. has built its reputation on avant-garde designs, animated mechanics, and boundary-pushing horology, and the limited edition Astronomia Tourbillon in black ceramic of lot 259 from Sotheby’s Important Watches II auction exemplifies all of that.

The Astronomia Tourbillon debuted at Baselworld in 2014, and this striking black ceramic version was produced in 2020. The watch features a kinetic, planetary-style display powered by a rotating platform that completes one revolution every 20 minutes.
 

Mounted on this platform are four key elements: a triple-axis flying tourbillon, an hour and minute sub-dial that remains upright as it travels, a spinning Earth, and a rotating diamond representing the Moon. The result is a cinematic sculpture in constant motion, brought to life within a sapphire-crystal case that offers an uninterrupted view of its mesmerizing choreography.

Inside, a hand-wound movement composed of 365 components powers the display. This remarkable piece is number 1 of a limited edition of 18.
 

Estimate: CHF 100,000 to CHF 150,000
Auction Date: April 30th - May 14th, 2025

When the RM UP-01 Ferrari was unveiled in mid-2022, it set a new world record as the thinnest mechanical watch ever made, measuring just 1.75mm thick, surpassing the previous titleholder, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra.

To accomplish this feat, Richard Mille took a bold, radical approach, pushing horological engineering to new extremes. More specifically, the traditional movement architecture was greatly reimagined by mounting the 1.18mm-thick movement directly onto the case.
 

Moreover, the RM UP-01 Ferrari features two unusual crowns requiring a special tool to wind. One crown is for selecting the function, and the other is for either winding or time-setting, depending on the selection.

Despite its record-setting thinness, this is not a concept watch. It was designed for real-world wear and durability. Production was limited to just 150 pieces, each priced at $1,888,000.
 

As lot 18 of Christie’s Rare Watches, Featuring Stories in Time: A Collection of Exceptional Watches auction, this example, number 94 in the series, is the Ferrari of the wristwatch world, both in name and in reality.

Estimate: CHF 800,000 to CHF 1,600,000
Auction Date: May 12th, 2025

The second-generation F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain Ref. TN was produced from 2004 to 2018. It featured a horizontal tourbillon, a constant-force mechanism, and deadbeat seconds – an innovative trio that earned the prestigious “Aiguille d’Or” at the 2004 GPHG.

As the Tourbillon Souverain transitioned to its third-generation vertical configuration, François-Paul Journe marked the end of the Ref. TN model with an extremely limited edition featuring a “Heart of Ruby” dial.
 

The ruby hardstone, measuring just 0.45mm thick, posed a significant challenge for F.P.Journe’s in-house dial workshop. Although the original plan called for 20 pieces, only 11 were ever produced from 2019 to 2020.

As lot 116 of Phillips’ The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, this piece’s vivid ruby dial is breathtaking in appearance. Moreover, the dial’s pairing with a full platinum bracelet takes this already rare creation to another level of exclusivity.
 

Estimate: CHF 250,000 to CHF 500,000
Auction Date: May 10th & 11th, 2025

In 2021, I had the opportunity to view Paul Newman’s Paul Newman (a Daytona Ref. 6239 sold by Phillips in 2017 for $17.7 million) up close at the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures in Los Angeles. So, it was a thrill to see another Paul Newman Daytona in excellent condition, showcased as lot 669 in Antiquorum’s upcoming Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces auction.
 

This lot, a reference 6262, was only produced from 1970 to 1971 and closely resembles the watch I saw at the museum. Beyond the iconic “Panda” aesthetic, the dial stands out for its intriguing details: the Art Deco-style numerals, the small squares at the ends of the hash marks, and the red “DAYTONA” text positioned above the 6 o’clock sub-dial.

Highly sought after due to its short production run and connection to the Paul Newman legend, the ref. 6262 has become a prized collector’s piece. With its crisp dial and well-preserved condition, this example is sure to draw strong interest from vintage Rolex enthusiasts and serious bidders alike.
 

Estimate: CHF 100,000 to CHF 200,000
Auction Date: May 10th, 2025