Discover the Art of Movement Finishing by Laurent Ferrier

Discover the Art of Movement Finishing by Laurent Ferrier

After seeing the creation of the Classic Moon Silver and Blue with our very own eyes, we felt compelled to share with you the expert craftsmanship behind its exquisitely decorated movement.

By Henri Lee
Contributor

With a 10x loupe, an iPhone, and social media, watch collectors’ knowledge and interest in movement finishing are at an all-time high. Macro shots showcasing movement decorations or comparing finishing among different brands often generate plenty of likes and comments.

However, this attention can be a double-edged sword for watch brands. On the one hand, their patient and intricate handwork is widely recognized. On the other hand, any mistakes or shortcuts are magnified for all to see.

Still, one high-end watch brand embraces the challenge of scrutiny, striving to achieve the highest level of traditional hand-finishing as an art, and Watchonista was recently invited to tour its atelier and examine the brand’s award-winning recent releases. This esteemed independent artisanal house in Geneva, including 15 watchmakers and 8 decorators, is none other than Laurent Ferrier.

A Fantastic 2024

Last year was productive and rewarding for the Laurent Ferrier team. First, a pair of annual calendars with moon phases, named Classic Moon Silver and Blue, debuted at Watches and Wonders 2024.
 

Then, in June, Laurent Ferrier collaborated with artist Hervé Di Rosa and unveiled a five-piece limited edition featuring a mysterious dial depicting a 12-armed character. For Geneva Watch Days, the Classic Auto Sandstone, the sixth addition to the brand’s highly coveted “Série Atelier” collection, was released.

Finally, to crown their achievements, the Classic Moon Silver took home the trophy in the 2024 GPHG Calendar and Astronomy category. This annual calendar features a striking moon phase indicator with an aventurine disc adorned with enamel and miniature painting.
 

The dial highlights Laurent Ferrier’s refined simplicity, complemented by charming vintage-style date fonts. The pebble-inspired 40mm red gold case conveys timeless and natural beauty.

On the reverse, the watch reveals a beautifully decorated movement with Côtes de Genève and nicely beveled edges. It’s Haute Horlogerie at its finest, admired by collectors and GPHG voting members alike.
 

Let’s delve into the hand-finishing techniques that bring this masterpiece to life.

Fassonage

The Classic Moon is powered by the in-house Calibre LF126.02, a manual-winding movement that showcases the full glory of its finishing work, unobstructed in full view. At first glance, we are greeted by the gleaming Côtes de Genève, or Geneva stripes, radiating from two large plates and two smaller bridges.
 

All the parallel and wavy patterns align perfectly across the disjointed plates and bridges. The true beauty of the Geneva stripes comes to life under changing light, with the interplay of light being simply marvelous.
 

The Geneva stripes are created through a process called fassonage, where a plate is moved back and forth under an abrasive tool. That is how the artisans at Laurent Ferrier set the benchmark for how these mesmerizing stripes should be crafted.
 

Polissage

Under the loupe, the smooth and radiant edges of the plates and bridges on the Classic Moon movement are immensely satisfying to view, with all the edges chamfered and beveled to create a 45-degree angle with a consistent width (this is a technique also known as anglage).

Polissage, or the polishing of edges, is one of the most delicate and time-consuming decorative processes, yet its results can be most delightfully appreciated under a loupe.
 

On the Classic Moon’s movement, near the lower end of the power reserve indicator, we find a brilliantly executed external angle. On the bridge holding the escapement wheel, an internal angle is equally striking.

Perhaps most amazingly, all of this exquisite polissage is painstakingly done by hand.

Etirage

Another time-consuming technique used to create beautifully finished surfaces is referred to by the Laurent Ferrier team as étirage.
 

For this technique, wooden tools are used to gradually draw or shape the lever flanks or other part surfaces. Artisans sharpen these wooden tools much like sharpening a pencil.
 

After long hours of meticulous polishing, the surfaces take on a marvelous shine. Due to the irregular shapes of most components, the polishing process must be performed by hand.
 

Satinage & Brouillage

Satinage, or satin finishing, is achieved by moving a part against abrasive paper in a single direction. The result is a smooth, shiny surface with subtle textures.
 

Brouillage, on the other hand, is a scratch-brushing technique performed in multiple directions. It is often applied to the underside of a lever.
 

Perlage, a.k.a. Circular Graining

Perlage is a decorative technique that creates circular graining and is most commonly seen on mainplates. It is performed using a stippling machine operated by a skilled artisan. To achieve the best appearance, the neighboring circles must overlap by half.
 

Even many unseen parts are decorated with perlage. One example is found on the top plate of the Classic Moon movement, as shown in our video. The area housing the power reserve indicator is full of circular graining despite being concealed in the final assembly.
 

Laurent Ferrier has won over the hearts of many discerning collectors. Beyond its timeless, minimalist aesthetic and horological innovations, the brand’s exceptional craftsmanship – exemplified by meticulously executed hand-finishing – is its main allure.
 

For more information, check out Laurent Ferrier’s website.

And receive each week a custom selection of articles.

Moondance: Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Moon Has All the Right Moves

By Laurie KahleContributor
In April, Laurent Ferrier released two new moon phase models that marry timeless, elegant design and a beautifully crafted movement featuring hand finishing...