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Vintage & Auctions

The 5 Most Interesting Vacheron Constantin Lots for Sale at the November Watch Auctions in Geneva

We scoured each of the upcoming auctions in November for the most compelling lots from Vacheron, and here’s what we found.

By Cait Bazemore
Contributor

Each year, when November rolls around, watch enthusiasts know this means one thing: auction season. Over the course of a couple weeks, hopeful bidders will flock to Geneva vying for some of the most incredible timepieces on the planet.

With the breadth of lots, it can be overwhelming. Even if you’re a fan of one particular brand – take Vacheron Constantin for instance – there are nearly 50 different models up for grabs.

So, this year, we’re taking the stress out of it for you. Here, we’ve compiled five of the most interesting and compelling lots from Vacheron across Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum.

Phillips’ The Geneva Watch Auction: XX – Lot 205

Vacheron produced the Reference 4178 from 1940 to 1964, and during that time, only 280 pieces were rendered in rose gold and housed the Calibre 434 instead of the Calibre 492. Fortunately, we have one such example of the 4178 in Phillips’ The Geneva Watch Auction: XX catalog that is accompanied by an extract from the brand’s archives confirming its production in 1945.
 

Lovers of the brand will particularly appreciate this watch for its distinctive and instantly recognizable “fancy” lugs with a half-teardrop design. The rose gold case gives way to a monochromatic aesthetic featuring a complementary salmon dial with a beautifully preserved two-tone finish.

Another element that makes this example special is the presence of a pulsometer scale running along the outer edge of the dial (as opposed to a more typical tachymeter). If this watch could tell a story, perhaps it spent years living on the wrist of a doctor back in the ‘40s or ‘50s thanks to this unusual functionality.
 

Of course, now, watches with features like the pulsometer are no longer essential tools in our daily lives. And yet, collectors can still appreciate this model for its perfect balance of elevated dress watch and sportier chronograph details.

Estimate: CHF 25,000 to CHF 50,000
Auction Date: November 9th & 10th, 2004

Christie’s Rare Watches Including Watches for ELA – Lot 39

This fall auction season, Christie’s has pulled out all the stops when it comes to its curation of watches from Vacheron, bringing two incredibly rare timepieces to the auction block during the Rare Watches Including Watches for ELA sale, including this Reference 43033⁄236.

This unique platinum model is the only known example in existence and features several mesmerizing details. The eye is immediately drawn to the skeletonized dial with four registers in the classic nine, twelve, three, and six positions showcasing the day, month, date, and moonphase, respectively.
 

With elements like the platinum build and romantic moon phase, this model undoubtedly exudes a particular elegance. However, it also retains balance with sportier elements, like a hexadecagonal bezel and an integral bracelet.

The detail of the bracelet is another showpiece of this model, offering an unusual basketweave design. It’s worth noting that the bracelet is rendered in white gold as opposed to platinum, and for those bidders looking to retain the bracelet and considering wrist size, this example holds an overall length of approximately 190mm.
 

While the 1980s are often considered a less desirable period in watchmaking, this one-of-a-kind model exemplifies one of the rare gems to come from the era with an extract from the archives confirming manufacture in 1987.

Estimate: CHF 40,000 to CHF 60,000
Auction Date: November 11th, 2024

Christie’s Rare Watches Including Watches for ELA – Lot 89

Continuing with the spectacular lots from Vacheron set to debut during Christie’s Rare Watches Including Watches for ELA is this Reference 4072.

The Reference 4072 is one of Vacheron’s most popular chronograph models ever produced, with a nearly 40-year run from 1938 until the early 1970s. This reference is mainly known for its chronograph buttons rendered with either an oval shape or the better-known rectangular version.
 

However, while this 4072 from 1967 does feature the more common rectangular pushers, its rarity comes from the dual branding on the dial. A possibly unique example, this piece is notable for its co-signed dial from both Vacheron Constantin and Bulgari.

In addition to the Vacheron Constantin name at the traditional twelve o’clock position, Bulgari is prominently featured at six o’clock. This co-branding is believed to indicate that the retailer that initially sold this piece was Bulgari.
 

This one-of-a-kind example presents an opportunity for a collector to own a piece of horological history. Plus, the versatile design that perfectly toes the line between sports and dress watch – a balance Vacheron is known for – is sure to make this model part of anyone’s regular rotation.

Estimate: CHF 30,000 to CHF 50,000
Auction Date: November 11th, 2024

Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I – Lot 62

When it comes to Vacheron’s most iconic models of all time, the 222 makes the top of the list. Designed by the legendary Jorg Hysek, the original 222 from 1977 was unlike any other model in Vacheron’s catalog.
 

More specifically, the 222 featured many hallmarks of the luxury sports watches of the 1970s, from its one-piece construction tonneau-shaped case to its detailed bezel and integrated bracelet made of long hexagonal bars that connect H-shaped links.

Despite its popularity, the 222 was only produced for a limited time – just eight years. Therefore, examples are increasingly rare. This particular 222 hails from the later end of the production run – 1982, to be exact – and offers the bonus of a two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold construction, giving it a distinctly ‘80s look and feel.

Many collectors have their eye on the 222 as a grail piece to complete their collection and will have the opportunity to make that dream a reality this November.

Estimate: CHF 15,000 to CHF 30,000
Auction Date: November 10th, 2024

Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces – Lot 269

This last selection, which is from Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces catalog, is a more atypical one that is not so much of a crowd-pleaser but rather the perfect lot for a specific collector who appreciates pieces with cultural significance: an aluminum pocket watch from the estate of Jerry Lewis.

Engraved with a dedication to the legendary comedian in March 1975, this timepiece is highly unusual because its case, dial, hands, and even its movement were aluminum. Made using material from the Canadian Aluminum Limited Company in Montreal, this piece weighs only 20 grams.
 

Fun Fact: Vacheron Constantin made this model pocket watch exclusively for the Canadian Aluminum Limited Company and in extremely limited runs from 1938 to 1955, specifically for employees’ 25th anniversary and other special occasions.

Adding further importance to this watch is the provenance, as indicated by the caseback’s personalization. Jerry Lewis, better known as “The King of Comedy,” solidified his place in the cultural zeitgeist during the 1950s and ‘60s alongside his comedic partner Dean Martin.
 

For an enthusiast with a passion for Vacheron Constantin and an affinity for this era of comedy, this is a rare occasion to own a special piece from Lewis’ personal collection.

Estimate: CHF 5,000 to CHF 10,000
Auction Date: November 9th & 10th, 2024

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