Horological Expressions: Face-to-Face with Two New Konstantin Chaykin Collabs

The whimsical designs of Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin have delivered some of the rarest, most exquisite, and, well, funniest collectible timepieces since 2011, when the brand first began producing wristwatches.

With strong visionary pillars based on a dedication to Russian production (it is the only luxury watchmaker based in Russia), a penchant for intriguing collaborations, and a go-to design approach that I will coin the phrase “maxillo-horological” to describe, the visual appeal of Chaykin wristwatches is only matched by their exacting technical and complicated excellence. You can spot a Chaykin creation from across the room as it keeps perfect time for its delighted wearer.

In terms of collaboration intrigue, you need look no further than 2022’s sale of the brand’s famous “Joker” version of its Wristmons watch, sold by Zürich’s Ineichen Auctioneers house, which was bundled with a special Joker-branded Porsche 911 and exclusive NFT digital piece. I mean, who does that? The lot hammered out at $324,000, BTW.

Two newer Chaykin collaborations, one with upstart independent Chinese watchmaker Behrens and an out-of-the-box tourbillon project with legacy Swiss watchmaker Louis Erard, have put even more of a face on the story.

Behrens and Chaykin recently celebrated their third year of collaboration with a new limited edition watch dubbed the “Ace of Hearts,” which adeptly pulls design cues from both parties in a gorgeous recombinant DNA experiment.
 

The off-kilter 32 by 37mm trapezoidal case draws a direct line to Behrens’ Ultralight models, while the menacingly smiley Joker elements are pure Chaykin (the original Joker debuted in 2019). There is also some Chinese art history and compelling skeletonization to complete the story. Thus, the distinctive Joker face takes on the apt presentation of being viewed in a “fun house” mirror.

The tell-tale red outline of the watch’s “mouth” frames the whimsical seconds hand and bridges, which, as the moniker indicates, carries a red heart-shaped indicator. One “eye” tells the hour with a circular indicator riding along an oval chapter ring, the other eye is the minutes indicator with a similar approach.
 

Fun fact: The central dial designs of the eyes are also whimsical artistic statements, with the Konstantin Chaykin logo on the minute side meant to represent a wink. Meanwhile, the furrowed brow at 12 o’clock holds the power reserve indicator for the timepiece.

Based on a new Behrens in-house calibre BM07 manual-wind movement, which incorporates 11 patents and provides 46 hours of power reserve, this limited edition is offered in three case materials: lightweight Grade 5 titanium (600 versions), Behrens’ propriety cutting-edge carbon-fiber SPSCF compound (150 each in black and white), and colorful translucent synthetic sapphire (80 pieces in blue, 20 in pink, however both appear to be already sold out).
 

Lastly, complementary rubber straps are offered for each variation, with pricing ranging from $8,250 to $14,960, depending on configuration.

You can learn more via the Behrens website.

Konstantin Chaykin’s ongoing collaborations with discerning watchmaker Louis Erard have given birth to the nicknames “Cyclops” and “Time Eater” for obvious visual reasons.

That lineage continues with the new Time Eater Tourbillon Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin. Chaykin created the first Russian-made tourbillon timepieces, so this is a complication near and dear to his heart.
 

The 42mm polished steel case frames the red-framed, ferocious, toothed “mouth” at 6 o’clock, which houses the 60-second tourbillon with its spinning red “tongue” to indicate seconds, thereby covering the “eating time” metaphor. Meanwhile, a single white orb runs along a circular chapter ring at 12 o’clock to cover the “one-eyed” portion of the beastly metaphor.

A dial-crossing central minutes hand mimics the wavy, op-art sunray pattern of the silvery dial along a green outer dial gauge (for the Louis Erard-branded version) or blue gauge (for the Chaykin-sold version).
 

A manual-winding Caliber BCP T02 movement provides a 100-hour power reserve for this timepiece, whose strap, of course, is crafted from monstrous toad leather for the 78 versions sold by Erard (for CHF 19,900 each). A less-dramatic, grained black calf skin strap accompanies the 28 blue-ringed units sold directly by Chaykin (for the same price).
 

For more information, check out either the Louis Erard or Konstantin Chaykin websites.