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24 Hours Later

24 Hours Later: Girard-Perregaux’s Latest Laureatos are All about the Metal

The glint of a new-jack 42mm titanium Laureato. The gleam of a copper-hued dial and diamond bezel 38mm Laureato. Get ready to rock!

By Mike Espindle
Executive Editor

Without getting too deep into the esteemed history of the Laureato timepiece, since its ground-breaking introduction in 1975 with an Italian moniker hinting at the 1967 hit movie The Graduate, Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato collection has continued to deliver outstanding appeal over the ensuing decades.

Nearly every form of complication, adornment, and material has found a home on the Laureato, all without breaking the purity and balance of the octagonal-oriented design (even when the dial is skeletonized). Moreover, the Laureato design may have, without getting too deep into controversy, also inspired octagonal designs from a few other watchmakers back in the day.

Now, two newly revealed Laureato models take this timepiece down some intriguing new paths (without veering too far from the original, immaculate design).

Cutting Weight

Despite its multiple permutations over the years, the Laureato is, at its core, a sports watch, pure and simple. So it wasn’t surprising to see that the new 42mm Laureato Chronograph Ti49 draws a direct line to classic Laureatos (down to its screw-down chrono pushers, octagonal bezel-on-circular plinth-on-tonneau case construction, monochromatic grey Clous de Paris dial texture, and lumed batons indices and hands).

It’s everything a Laureato fan could want and less.
 

Less weight that is because the “Ti” in the model name is for the Grade 5 titanium from which the case and bracelet are made (Fun Fact: The “49” in the model name indicates that this year is the 49th anniversary of the Laureato’s release). In fact, I was lucky enough to wear the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 for a few days before this writing, and the sheer lightness of the timepiece is rather remarkable.
 

But more to the point, for a sports watch, what better way to lean into its intent than with durable, lightweight Grade 5 titanium? It kind of draws a new starting point in the sand, opening up a world of revisiting vintage designs to develop new Laureato variations with the metal alloy.

Technically identified as Ti64, Grade 5 titanium has been found to have several industrial uses since its invention in 1951 and, over the past few years, has been making major inroads into the watch industry. That is because, in addition to its many durability and lightweight benefits, Grade 5 titanium is better suited to finishing than other grades of titanium, resulting in a more refined metallic luster.
 

Yet, despite all these benefits, this is the first time Ti64 has been used in a classic Laureato reference. But with its contrasting brushed and polished surfaces, the new Laureato Chronograph Ti49 is, to be frank, stunning.

The Details

Powered by the self-winding, Manufacture Calibre GP03300 movement, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49, released only yesterday, sports three snailed sub-dials (small seconds at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and a 30-minute tally at 9 o’clock) and a small date aperture at the 4:30 position. Meanwhile, all of its gauging and numerals pop nicely off the grey textured dial in gleaming white, making it easy to read.
 

Of course, the tell-tale screw-down pushers, which can be a polarizing detail depending on who you talk to, pretty much have to be included in a new-jack ode to classic Laureato-ness. However, I found no difficulty in their operation; plus, they eliminate practically all accidental chrono-starts, which, in the end, will prevent its 46-hour power reserve from being run down.

Bling-A-Ding

If the Ti49 is an example of Laureato classicism meeting material modernity, then the steel Laureato 38mm Copper Diamond Bezel, released last week, is a lesson in what happens when Laureato classicism meets subdued, gender-neutral ornamentation. (Hint: The answer is very good things!)

The eye-grabbing copper-hued dial of this timepiece (a colorway first introduced on the Laureato in 2022) is now further enhanced with a diamond-set bezel. A surprisingly subtle application when compared to most diamond-set bezels, eight larger stones anchor each corner of the octagonal bezel while a total of 48 diamonds complete this restrained approach.
 

Apart from those details (and a gleaming golden central seconds hand that compliments the dial’s Clos de Paris texture), the Copper Diamond Bezel is pure Laureato design DNA.

Universal Appeal

At 38mm, this timepiece is currently considered a mid-sized model, which means that both its size and the nature of its ornamentation make it appropriate for any wrist.

Moreover, like its light-capturing diamond bezel, this special copper dial execution also plays nicely with the light, producing ochre, burned wood, and straight-up copper hues on the wrist. The copper color also rides on the background of the date disc, viewable via an aperture at 3 o’clock.
 

Again, the Manufacture Calibre GP03300 movement is utilized. However, unlike the Ti49, it is fully visible via an exhibition caseback, revealing the exquisite graining, beveling, and finishing of the inner workings, as well as the pink gold rotor decorated with Côtes de Genève.
 

Pricing & Availability

Both the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 ($19,400) and Laureato Copper Diamond Bezel ($20,100) are now available at all authorized brand retailers. You can learn more by visiting the Girard-Perregaux website.

(Images © Girard-Perregaux)

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