TimeForArt Auction Spotlight: Gerald Charles x Igor Mitoraj Luci di Nara
Gerald Charles Hammers Out Three Masterlink Atelier Limited Editions
The dials of Gerald Charles’ Masterlinks Atelier Editions timepiece in each of three colors are hand-hammered, meaning no two are the same.
Simplicity Hides Complexity
“Our aim was to let simplicity conceal complexity. Designing a watch where you can feel everything, yet see nothing… now that’s truly a high-wire act,” comments Gerald Charles CEO Federico Ziviani.
The brand, founded by the late watchmaking maître des maîtres Gérald Genta in 2000 as his final take on creative independence, hews to the founder’s philosophical precepts of steel, worked right, being as elevated an expression of horology as any noble metal, and that what some might consider disruption can stand firmly as artfulness.
Painting By Hammer
Of course, as a métier d’art practice, none of the 75 limited edition dials is exactly like another. Still, there is some shared mood across the three dial color options in the collection.
The Ref. ML1.0-SSPS-SSBR-MI18HM-SBDP, which the brand describes as rhodium-colored, presents a more harmonious, monochromatic choice that flows more easily into the timepiece’s overall visual language while still taking full advantage of each individual light-catching hammered dial detail.
The Ref. ML1.0-SSPS-SSBR-MI14HM-SBDP, which the maker describes as a golden rose color, carries redder, more coppery hues than its sisters and, at least for this author, evokes a nostalgic, heritage vibe to the execution that further plays with Atelier Edition’s inherent juxtapositions.
Finally, while gem facets are generally straight-cut, there is certainly a jewel-like quality to the irregular “facets” of the yellow gold-toned ML1.0-SSPS-SSBR-MI22HM-SBDP that lend this timepiece a more direct whiff of luxury. The absence of indices or other dial embellishments (just two baton hands and the maker’s logo) reinforces the dial’s visual draw and the artful tension that ensues.
On the Inside
The ultra-thin self-winding manufacture GCA 1000 movement is on lovely display through an exhibition caseback for all versions. The 50-hour power reserve ticker is fittingly understated under ample Côtes de Genève plate-striping, yet on close inspection you will find an intriguing offset micro-rotor, snailing on the bridges, and circular graining throughout.

Just enough detail to paint a balanced, pretty picture, without overdoing it. In fact, that can be said to some extent of the Atelier Editions’ overall feel: Elements of Renaissance gilt meeting outré randomized modern art, framed by a sleek, accessible, even sporty steel construction.
Debuting today, pricing for the Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier editions (25 executions each in three colorways) is strictly on request. You can find out more at the watchmaker’s website.