In the 2015 edition of Baselworld, the brand had its stand at the Palace. After several years of operating discreetly by selling its best watches to MIPs (Most Important Personalities), it suddenly found itself in the spotlight. The MIP’s are the people who contribute to running the world as well as to the building of current civilizations. At first, we don’t really realize how powerful they are unless they are some country’s President. In fact, they are rare and elusive and make our most bandied about VIPs look a bit more like (“very important”) ordinary people.
Between two shots of the vodka from a brand that aims to draw out the taste of caviar in the mouth, the Team Kerbedanz, including Tigran Kerbedanz, the founder in person, described the potential of their brand in details. Indeed, after living in the shadow of uniquely unique pieces, Kerbedanz now aims for the confidential popularity of limited or even ultra-limited series. In fact, one needs to have quite an extensive knowledge to understand Kerbedanz’s luxury universe of exuberant aesthetics. The Neuchâtel-based maison is the first traditional brand to make the exploration of civilization and cultural symbols its hobby horse and to see it through rigorously.
A universal totemic emblem
Among the many a symbol the brand has already championed, it was precisely horses that allowed Kerbedanz to do its bit by releasing its 3-Horses tourbillon in 41 numbered pieces at BaselWorld. This was no easy feat as equine representations have been a recurrent subject for brands and watch designers. There is no symbol as universal as this one and if we had to choose the perfect reference of all animal allusions in watchmaking, it would undoubtedly be horses.
The watch in question features a white gold dial and a bas-relief. Three horse torsos seem to be rearing up, alive and in relief, from the 18-K white gold bezel of the 46-mm case. It is water-resistant to 5 atm (50 meters). The horses’ expressions and refined traits are the work of goldsmiths and create an air of lightness that is enhanced by the visibility of the mechanical tourbillon caliber with a sapphire plate. It floats in the air and is very sparkling. The round edges of the horses’ manes are vividly life-like.
The KRB-02 caliber: a sapphire tourbillon
For the production of this series of 41 numbered pieces, the brand chose the manufacturer that best suited its interests and fulfilled its needs – taking into account that its clientele always orders customized and special pieces. This time around, Concepto was the chosen one to partake in the design of this in-house and decorated caliber under the supervision of Kerbedanz’s designers. The hand-wound piece features a 72-hour power reserve and oscillates to a reassuring 21,600 vibrations per hour, which enables the human eye to watch it beat. The winding stem – a Kerbedanz trademark and a symbol in itself – is placed at 1 o’clock. This resulted in the unconventional positioning of the tourbillon frame, yet another sign of extreme refinement.