The New Hermès H08 Squelette Sheds Some Light on the Intricate Mysteries Within
The maison’s latest executions of its new-jack, geometrically unorthodox timepiece prove that the words “skeleton” and “sporty” don’t have to be mutually exclusive.
The overall theme for the watches from Hermès at this year’s Watches and Wonders show was officially “Mysterious Mechanisms.” However, ironically, all its releases shared a degree of open-work visibility that helped to shed some light on the intricate mysteries within.
Particularly in the two flavors of the Hermès H08 Squelette we saw in the metal, the views were just fine, fine indeed.
Since its introduction in 2021 as an artfully designed, disruptive, “not quite square, not quite round” sport watch built on the unique design codes of the 189-year-old saddlery-operation-turned-fashion house, the Hermès H08 has seen its evolution fueled by new material introductions (notably titanium, ceramic, and rose gold), inventive metallic cases treatments, bold color ways in dial and strap design, and even some unexpected complication oomph in a perhaps-under-recognized mono pusher chronograph in 2023.
Building a Window into Time
But what about the concept of opening up visibility on the Hermès H08? Well, that required a brand-new movement to, ahem, see the project through. The in-house Hermès H1978 S (“S” is for skeleton) is an ambitious construction of interlocking and overlapping dark grey-black PVD-treated titanium components and straight-angled architectural bridging, crafted with an eye towards creating specific areas of see-through negative space through the mechanical self-winding caliber.
Even in the caseback view, the skeletonized rotor defies normal geometric description in a rounded-square oscillating mass that, while expertly crafted to mirror the case shape, kind of looks like it shouldn’t be able to actually spin in the frame (of course, it does).
Components tend to cluster towards the center of the movement, providing outer-movement windows just under the Hermès H08’s distinctive, Bauhaus-influenced index font. In fact, it is the presentation of that unmistakable font that provides the primary differentiation point of the two flavors of Hermès H08 Squelette that debuted in Geneva.
How Blue Were My Numbers?
While the two executions of the H08 Squelette share a 42mm black DLC-coated case, a satin-brushed ceramic bezel, and mirror-polished chamfers, the so-called “Blue” versions of the Squelette feature vibrant blue Super-LumiNova illuminating the indices and baton hands. The “Grey” versions present a more sober option, with sedate grey numerals and hands.
Aptly, rubber strap options skew more dramatic for the “Blue” Hermès H08 Squelette. A particularly dead-on Blue Zanzibar textured rubber strap picks up the lume’s bold azure hue, while a sleek black rubber strap option tamps down the effect. For the “Grey” version, the more understated options of abyss blue, a sandy dune hue, or a botanical green are offered.
Whichever version you prefer, the openwork in no way detracts from the Hermès H08 intriguing case design. Would you call it cushion-shaped? Or not? Does the bezel “pinch” in at the four cardinal axes? Or not?
To explore the answers to these questions (and more) for yourself, you can purchase one of these new pieces, which is available now, for $21,600, regardless of which Hermès H08 Squelette you choose.
For more information, check out the Hermès website.
